BALI WANDERINGS
Since March 1984, my wife Marie and I have clocked up 106 and 122 trips to The Isle of Smile by the Mile, respectively. Arriving with Garuda at about mid-day, March 30th 1984 for the first time, we were amazed to find that the streets were empty and the shops shuttered; the ‘guide' from the Kuta Palace Hotel, now the Jayakarta, warned us that we were not allowed out of the hotel until the next day, anybody found on the streets would be severely punished - this was evidenced by bands of Religious Police, bearing canes, who wandered around to ensure that Nyepi rules were obeyed. At that time, planes were allowed to land on Nyepi Day but in more modern times, no activity at the airport is allowed.
WELCOME TO BALI
It transpired that we had landed on Nyepi Day, Day of Silence in the Bali Hindu Religion when everybody was expected to be very quiet, no lights at night, no fires for cooking, no talking and most of the day to be spent in contemplation, no co-habitation by couples, although it would seem coincidental that a lot more births than usual occur about nine and a half months after that date, every year! What else is there to do at a time like that? one asks oneself!
After a very sweaty one hour tour of other hotels to drop off co-tourists, we arrived at Jayakarta, immediately dazzled by the gleaming glamour of the place. Brought by the room-boy via the Pool and Restaurant to a room at the back, where the stink of drains was rather manky, to say the least. Upon complaining, we were told to speak to Front Office next day and all would be OK. It became obvious to us in future years, that pre-paid guests were always given the worst room, no matter which hotel. Unpacked hastily, Duty Free into fridge, just as hastily grabbed towels and bathers setting off for the lovely bar by which we had been detoured, for our first slurp of San Miguel, which was the most-served beer in those days.
NO GETTING AWAY FROM ROCKINGHAM
Half-way down our first glass, we were tapped on the shoulder by a fellow-Rockingham resident saying ‘we six are over there', pointing across the pool to his group, inviting us to join them, so much for our private tropical get-away! We agreed to come join them when we caught our breath. A few gulps later, we made our way across to them, tripping over the feet of 3 young lads from Rockingham also, who had been in the cab I was driving the previous Saturday night. The three couples were most amenable and we whiled away the afternoon in Rockingham, as it were, gaining some first-hand knowledge of some places worth a look ETC in Bali Bagus.
At about 6PM we started to feel nibblish and headed over to the Restaurant for a nosh, including our ‘ complimentary welcome drink' decorated beautifully with tropical flowers and tasting of watery lemon juice laced with a little diesel fuel; ah! well. We were immediately informed that a la carte was off, until the day after to-morrow but we were welcome to help ourselves to the Smorgasbord set out with great taste and decoration, costing only 3 times the normal price of an evening meal. We were trapped and sucked dry in a greedy fashion by surly waitresses who were also trapped, away from their home kampungs for the duration; the San Mig' was at an upper price also.
HELP WITH DUTY-FREE
At the bar later, we fell into the company of a couple of deck-hands from a cruise ship, a Scot and a Venezuelan, who kindly offered to help us with our Duty Free at our room. We eventually had a thump on the door and a Security Guard, twirling a ceremonial sword, told us to turn the lights down or suffer dire consequences, also to stop the singing of Scots, Irish, Venezuelan melodies above 25 decibels, as these were not acceptable to the Local Gods. Again, welcome to Bali Bagus, land of graciousness and smiles.
We eventually bade good-night to our helpful friends and clambered into a nice bed, to listen to the frisking of (we hoped) squirrels in the ceiling.