On our annual mid winter holidays in bali, we have tried to expand our experiences of different locations. This year it was Amed and I'm delighted to say we weren't disappointed.
Our trip started off with yet another change in our flight with PBlue. Instead of the direct flight from Sydney we were told as we boarded that there would be a stop in Darwin to refuel!
Of course the "extra 20-30 minutes " turned into an hour and with the diversion we arrived almost 3 hours later than the scheduled ETA. Needless to say people who had started in Melbourne even earlier than us were even more disgruntled with the cavalier attitude PB has in their supposed flight schedules. One bonus however was that we were the only flight and we had cleared the dreaded VOA, retrieved our bags and were out within 30 minutes.
Our first stop was the Saren Indah in Ubud. Part of me is reluctant to write about this gem on the outskirts of the monkey forest for fear of it being unavailable next time I want to book a room. For $45 US a night we had breakfast, 1 hour massage. fresh fruit and the usual welcome drink. The staff were fabulous and there is free internet in the open air lobby. Some might find the location a problem despite the free and frequent transfers to and from the hotel to the top of Monkey Forest Road, but for us the daily walk through the Monkey Forest was fine even at night. We became quite blase about the occasional monkey visiting the hotel though the staff warned them off with slingshots!
Ubud was mainly an eating experience and for us the best meals were at Cinta and Ipu Rai on Monkey Forest Road. I surprised myself by being able to complete the Bali Baik though the heat plus a lack of fitness/skill/preparation made it tough.
After 5 nights in Ubud it was off to Baliku in Amed. Donna, the Australian owner had arranged a driver to pick us up from Ubud. The trip was smooth and uneventful and we saw a different part of Bali as we drove up the coast via Candi Dasa. (which might be next on the places to stay)
Amed is a misnomer as it is actually a long stretch of coast with villas, home stays and hotels all along the 10-12 kms after you turn off the main road. If you are someone who scorns Sanur because of its lack of night life then Amed is not for you as it makes Sanur seem like Las Vegas. What it does have is an astoundingly beautiful coast with views of Lombok, fishing boats whose colourful sails make their return to the beach reminiscent of the start of the Sydney to Hobart yacht race and, best of all, beautiful coral reefs only a few metres from the edge of the beach.
The Baliku is a more expensive option but the size, views and privacy of each villa make it worthwhile. There are a range of warungs strung along the main road and up market places like "Sails " will pick you up and take you back to your hotel. Motorbikes are a good option and very cheap to rent 30K-60K Rupiah a day ! Whizzing along the coast road while Mt. Agung towered in the distance was a highlight of the holiday. At night a torch is very handy if you are walking but the lack of street lights is balanced by a night sky ablaze with stars in a way lost to city dwellers like us. Of the places we ate ate Deep Blue was the pick of warungs while Sails provided excellent meals though a little light on spices for my taste.
After 5 nights in Amed we headed back to the comparative hustle and bustle of Sanur for some retail therapy as well as more eating and drinking. We stayed at the Mercure and were very happy with our room and service. The hotel's buildings have been cleverly integrated into the gardens so that despite its size, you rarely catch a glimpse of anyone else on their verandah. Breakfast is expensive if it's not included in your booking so we went to Cafe Treo where for $8-9 AUS we had a fabulous coffee and light meal.
A constant companion while we were eating was one of the local dogs whom I named "Pauline" due to her aggressive attitude towards any Balinese who ventured near her territory. Europeans were fine and welcomed with a wagging tail and soulfull brown eyes but brown people were given a thorough telling off!
Reading other posts has reinforced my impression that meal prices have gone up noticeably since last year. Charming down the southern end of the main road is surely one of the best places you can eat. Despite it being a few dollars more expensive it was packed every night we went there. I love the added touch of cold towels, cashews, dips and the little chair for your bag to sit on! If you do visit make sure you try the beef Rendang.
Fortunately I had a relaxing massage for only 50k at Suar (unfortunate name I know) just up from the Mercure before the PB flight back. After we had landed we were told that the outside temperature was 6 degrees! A collective moan greeted the announcement and return to winter. Thanks for reading.