Very Long -
Left Candidasa mid morning, and took the opportunity to see some sights along the way.
AGA VILLAGE:
Very glad that we went to have a look at this settlement. The ladies were in the community hall in the middle of the compound making offerings etc - a great social time for them judging by the amount of laughter going on. I was told at a guess that there would be perhaps 1000 people living there (with extended families difficult to tell). Also told that the people of that village are amongst the richest villagers in Bali as they own quite extensive amounts of land around the country. Saw the Ikat
GOA LAWAH TEMPLE: (Bat Cave)
We were advised that this is the only temple in Bali that can be used for the ceremony held 1 month after cremation - so imagine there would be ceremonies happening there all the time. (Something to do with the flow from the hillside temple to the sea being perfect to free the spirit). There was a ceremony happening on the day we were there. Lovely festive time happening on the beach. Their was a colourful childrens ride that was pedal powered!! IE A man was sitting on a push bike pedaling away to keep the ride moving - the kids loved it, and I thought it was an excellent photo opportunity.
Had visited a number of temples in Bali on previous trips. Thought this one was particularly nice, and of course had the added extra of the bats thrown in.
KLUNGKUNG:
Most of which was destroyed in 1908 during the Dutch conquest. Visited the floating palace built in the 18th century. (Where the King used to go for peace and quiet) and the attached museum. The paintings on the ceiling of the pavilions are wonderful, and imagine the palace would have been something in its day.
I thought Klungkung was quite a pretty little town in the hills - unfortunately didn't get time to visit their famous markets. (Actually that is a bit of a fib - we did actually have time, however chose not to given it was the middle of an extremely hot day and we thought we might expire if we went inside the area where no air was circulating).
HONEYMOON GUESTHOUSE UBUD:
This was our accommodation for the next three nights. Again we chose it because we thought it would have a good Balinese feel. I had read the book Fragrant Rice by Janet De Neefe (owner of Honeymoon Guesthouse) a number of years ago, and also wanted to attend her cooking school - Casa Luna.
We thought the guesthouse was wonderful - we felt like we were staying in a palace. For 500000rp per night plus taxes we thought it was extremely good value for money. Located in a lovely little street with a paved road. We stayed in a Krishna room. 1 x Queen Bed, 1 x double bed - very large room, with very large verandah in a beautiful setting. A la carte breakfast each morning which was served on our verandah each morning at our designated time. Just wonderful.
Also attended the cooking school - and were lucky enough to have Janet De Neefe taking the class (believe that isn't all that common these days given her other commitments). It was a lovely half a day. 300000rp. Starting with a visit to the markets before tourist opening hours. Cooked some interesting things, most of which I probably wouldn't cook at home. I have tried the Mie Goreng since I got home, but am lacking one essential ingredient that I will have to source from an Asian Grocery somewhere here. It was a good laugh, Janet and her staff were all very pleasant and liked a laugh, and I am sure I learned something from it. (Maybe I will have difficulty making the smoked eel salad - and not sure that my family will find it to their taste!!).
SARI ORGANIC:
Well - we chose to start the walk from the path noted on the Sari Organic business card - down towards the Campuhan Bridge(not at the Lotus Restaurant that I had read about on here before). Hmmn - well, a lovely paved walk to Sari Organic (maybe 15/20 minutes on the track). Nice cold fruit juice there, and asked the lady if we could continue on the track and wind our way back to Ubud (rather than just going back the way we had come). Yes no problems at all apparently.
Well - yes there was - the path soon turned into just a narrow mud track (about a foot wide at best). There were times when we were right beside a sheer drop to the stream down below (and I hate heights!!).
We walked, and we walked and we walked - finally came out onto a bitumen road in a village somewhere - asked some teenagers playing soccer, which way to Ubud and we walked and we walked and we walked. I actually started to think the teenagers had been joking with us. Would you believe - for the only time while we were in Bali there was absolutely no-one pulling up beside us to see if we wanted transport -no cars at all.
Anyhoo, we estimate we have been walking for about 2 hours when we finally found a nice man outside his house who told us Ubud was about 3km away. By this time I had blisters and there was a storm coming. Luckily enough, about 1km further up the road, a lovely transport man pulled up (can't believe I said that as I am usually trying to avoid them) - and in we hopped. After all the hassle from transport operators in Ubud - I never thought I would be so happy to see one!!.
When we told our driver about this a few days later, he informed us that we had missed an important turn in the track that went down over the stream. Hate to admit it, but a man trying to sell paintings to us had pointed to that track and told us that is where we should be going. This was after we had told him we didn't want to buy any paintings, and he wasn't very happy with us - we thought he was trying to lead us astray!! As we were walking off he said "Ubud is that way - come down there and I will show you some information" Hmmn - to two women on their own - that sounded a bit scary, so we merrily kept walking on the track we were on. Oh well - all turned out well, and good exercise.
UBUD BIRTHING CENTRE:
Had collected two suitcases full of new and near new baby clothes, wraps etc that had been donated by the lovely people I work with. We were given a guided tour by one of the midwives and thought the place was lovely given they struggle by on donations.
Also very luck to mee Robyn Lim who established the place. She is the closest thing to a Mother Theresa type character that I will ever meet. PS: If you are visiting, she advised that she has fallen in love with Earl Gray Tea - so a few boxes of that would be a nice little present for her.
Heard some sad stories. Midwife had tears in her eyes as she was telling us that if medical intervention is required - they have to send the mum to hospital. Costs start at around AUD250. The hospital sends mum home as soon as possible, however keep the baby until the medical bill can be paid. (Not the sort of money impoverished balinese can come up with - so in again walks the Ubud Birthing Centre to help whenever possible).
Whilst the items I took were very much appreciated, I came to realise that they really just need money. They have a donation box there, and that is what I will do next time. Or donate online when I have some spare cash.
RESTAURANTS:
Casa Luna Cafe/Restaurant - Great Coffee - again owned by the Queen of Ubud Janet De Neefe.
Cafe De Artistes - Nice food, just a few doors down from our accomodation. 353000rp for two courses and 4 bintangs. (Italian Salad, Tuna Spring Rolls, Thai chicken Curry and Steak with Mushroom sauce).
Lotus Pond - Meal was good - nothing to hugely rave about, but nice and fresh. They had a cultural dance on stage. Would recommend if you are going there that you pay the additional money to get yourself a table in front of the stage - otherwise you are viewing from across the pond - which is a fair way away.
Nomads - Disappointing. Entree was OK. We both had pasta for main course. 1 was pretty tasteless, mine was quite greasy.
SHOPPING:
My main purchase in Ubud was a painting from Negara Gallery in Monkey Forest Road. 750000rp. Lovely painting - frame isn't terribly good quality, however has been painted to match in with the painting. Got through customs OK.
Happy to answer any questions.
Will do my final JBR on the weekend. Santika Resort Tuban (lovely)including the result of our leather and homewares orders.