I've just got to get this off my chest. We came back from a really wonderful 2-week trip to Bali last month. Rented a car, drove all over the island, just loved it. Really ...I mean it, it was great. But on Day 2, lost and hungry, pulled over to the side of the road to study the map and a smiling guy gives us good directions and we ask where is a good place to eat. (By the way, that week was propitious for cremations, can you see where this is going....) The chap indicated we were parked in front of a good little spot where he's going in to eat, so we did. Roof, no walls of course, a rice paddy behind us, we ordered the same as everyone else. Soup was thin, extremely spicy with unrecognizable chunks floating. No problem. I start picking through the morsels around the rice, my back to the paddy. My wife indicates action at the other end of the paddy. Bright coloured decorations, a well-dressed group of villagers doing some ceremony. Back in my plate, the beef looks a bit strange ...liver? Lots of little bones, push them aside, push the soup aside, concentrate on the beef, or is it chicken... I turn around, the fellow dressed in white (a priest?) is pouring the contents out of a plastic Aqua bottle, strikes a match and POOOF it all goes up in flames. After a minute, the coloured decorations are devoured, the smoke turns blacker. Cremation going on there. Back in my plate I'm having trouble finding morsels that I can comfortably swallow. I don't consider myself to be a fussy eater. I bite into the "liver" and it goes CRUNCH up against my teeth. My wife is saying nothing, staring at the scene in the field. We hear a loud popping noise from the fire (it must be a coconut husk, tell me it's a husk). I'm having a hard time to swallow the dry bits, would love something to wash it down but the soup is way too spicy to help out. Then the wind shifts. I kid you not, the frigging wind shifts and the smoke blows into the restaurant. My eyes meet my wife's stricken stare and we instantly acknowledge that it's time to leave town. I did feel bad leaving the food on the table, but we paid, hopped in the car and sped off to our next adventure. ....I have a thousand magnificent pictures of rice terraces, steaming craters, smiling faces and ten thousand memories to go with it, we loved Bali. But that meal. That MEAL!!....