Next day we were getting picked up from Villa 8 at 11am by a driver to take us from Seminyak on a sight-seeing route to Candidasa. We had planned to go to the Bali Bird Park, then have lunch somewhere, then go to the Hot Springs at Pura Tirta Empul. However, D began feeling unwell on the drive (too many cocktails!) so we just went to the Bird Park. The central netted part of the Bird Park is good, as you can walk inside and the birds can fly about. But some birds are outside this part, and are in small cages, so that's a shame. On the other hand, some birds are able to fly free through the park so that's good. And there's a nice lake area, where you can sit and watch the Pelicans and Flamingoes, and an interesting Javanese house. We had lunch in the main restaurant at the park and it was really tasty food and (surprisingly for a tourist attraction) quite cheap. My mixed sate and P's Nasi Campur were delicious.
The drive to Candidasa didn't take that long, although we did take a wrong turn and end up in Padang Bai! Our driver was very apologetic but we didn't mind at all - it's nice to see other places and it was only a short detour. We hadn't booked any accommodation, but I had a few places in my head from the forum and guidebooks and so we stopped at Grand Natia first, as that sounded nice. The staff looked really pleased to see us and I asked if they had 2 sea-view rooms. The walk from reception along a narrow path between the bungalows is very pretty, as you can see the view at the end over the sea coming closer, and there is water running along either side of the paths, with fish in. I was shown the rooms, and they seemed dark but I thought this was due to the curtains being closed so we agreed a price (not much bargaining here, but it was cheap anyway) and got checked in. Only then did I discover the sea view is from the small terrace at the door to the bungalow (which is just an extension of the pool and restaurant area so no privacy) and there are no windows in the room as such. But I couldn't be bothered moving, the room was a good price, and anyway, the infinity pool looked so inviting! We were hot after the drive so decided to go straight for a dip (the view was lovely, out over the sea to some small islands). It was only then I realised that the staff, who had been sitting on the loungers by the pool and had greeted us warmly as we entered our bungalow, weren't in fact staff but beach hawkers who wanted us to buy massages and a snorkelling trip. This wasn't a major problem, as I had been planning on organising a snorkelling trip, so I spoke to the fisherman and agreed a price (again not much bargaining) and time to meet in the morning. Then after our swim, two of us had massages from the ladies - very good, full body, hour-long. However, if we hadn't have wanted their services, it would have made it very uncomfortable to sit on our terrace or be in the pool with them hanging about on the loungers. I think they paid the hotel a fee for being there.
Then headed out for dinner across the road to Kubu Bali, as it had good reviews. It was empty except for one other table (of all places, Candidasa had the most empty bars and restaurants). The menu was mid-priced, although some of the seafood was expensive, and there was an open kitchen so you could see it was all very hygienic. Food okay, although D's crab had very little meat on it. We were all tired and wanted an early night so we'd be fresh for the boat trip, and headed back. I had a drink and some black rice pudding at the hotel; they hadn't had any customers in their restaurant all night. Getting changed to go to bed, I realised that our room wasn't as clean as it could be (dried splashes of red wine or something on the floor by my side of the bed).
Next morning, we had breakfast overlooking the sea, and some new hawkers were in place wanting our custom. They took our ‘no's without any hassle.
Breakfast was fine - American or continental included in room rate. Our boatman met us and led us to his boat, and we headed off to snorkel at the Blue Lagoon. I love going out on those little fishing boats! The trip itself is nice, even if you don't like snorkelling, although it's ironic that the lagoon is right next to the oil terminal they broke up the coral to build! Saw a variety of fish but I was surprised to find a strong current pushing me about, as I had heard the Blue Lagoon was the safer spot to snorkel in the area. I was gutted as P saw a reef tip shark but I wasn't quick enough! We booked our fisherman to take us to White Sand beach the next morning, as our flight home wasn't until the evening. Back at the hotel, we asked if we could check out at about 2pm the next day, rather than midday. Despite the hotel being pretty much empty (just us and one other room occupied) but they didn't seem too happy about it. I asked if there was an empty room we could use to get changed after the beach instead. That seemed even less of an option, but he did then say we could check out at 2pm. Then we headed off for lunch at the Watergarden. Tasty food, good service, and a couple of other customers in. We then had a look around some of the shops. We were short on cash so went to the ATM, but all instructions were in Indonesian and we couldn't guess which of the 10 options meant withdraw cash. Luckily we had some English money so changed it at a money-changer on the same side as Watergarden, a few shops down. He was in a small square building up a couple of steps - I think he might also rent cars or bikes. He was trustworthy - no dropping money on his lap or anything - and gave a good rate, so I would recommend him. We stopped at the Dewa Spa and arranged some treatments. I had a pedicure and facial, D had a facial, and P had a massage. The spa was quite basic, so seemed a let down compared to Verona. D enjoyed his facial but I thought mine was a bit poor; P enjoyed his massage but said it was also very firm and quite painful - he was still aching from it when we got back to the UK! D and I then went shopping in a store near our hotel - opposite side of road and a very short walk along in the direction of the lagoon; bought carved masks and drums, very cheap prices and cheerful owner.
Dinner that night was at Kedai, right down the opposite end of the main road in an open, circular building. So we had to go past a lot of other empty restaurants first, and say ‘no' to a lot of smiling waiters inviting us into their places. Kedai was also empty, although someone else did come in later on. The service was good and the food was very nice. P tried their unusual chocolate/cheese/banana desert, which he enjoyed.
Walking back to the hotel, we stopped off to have some drinks in Café Wayan, about half-way along the main road. They brought us some complementary popcorn; even though they were empty (and looked like they had been all night), they still gave us 30% off on the bill.
Next morning we packed, and after breakfast headed off on the boat to White Sands beach. Further away than Blue Lagoon, and in the opposite direction, it was a beautiful ride in the boat past lush green cliffs; it felt like being in the ‘Lost' set! Then we eventually rounded into the bay and saw the beach. Very non-commercialised - just rows of fishing boats, lots of empty sand, and a few shacks serving cold drinks and food. A few fishermen came over to help dock the boat, and then one of them - Gusti - guided us to his warung (Anda Lunch), outside which were some sunloungers with parasols, which we gladly took. Then our morning was a mixture of lazing, walking on the beach and walking into the sea to snorkel in the beautifully warm, clear water. Some places it seemed blue, others green. Lots of fish and some nice coral - preferred it here to the Blue Lagoon. We ordered cold drinks from Gusti and then had some lunch - freshly caught and grilled fish - very simple, very tasty, and very cheap. Gusti told us that after the Jimbaran bomb, not a single tourist came to their beach for two weeks. Even that day though, there was only about four other tourists on the beach, based at the other couple of warungs, so I think it's a quiet spot anyway - perfect I think! No real hawkers - an old man that had helped dock the boat walked past and showed us his basket of shells and asked if we'd like any - we said no thank you, and he smiled and walked off. Would definitely go back there.
Back in the boat, back to hotel, whirlwind get changed and check out. There was a mix-up at reception with paying the bill as I tried to pay with my visa card (as per their sign) but he suggested we pay cash as there was a 3% charge on credit card. I didn't have enough Rupiah so he suggested I go to the ATM; as I'd tried this and didn't know what the word for withdraw money was, I asked him if he could translate, but he couldn't tell me. So he worked out the 3% charge and it was incorrect (double the bill); I'm not mathematical but I know that's not 3%. I didn't make a fuss, just asked him in a friendly way if he could double check before I paid as I didn't think it was correct. He was insistent it was correct, showing me a calculator and his workings out, until another member of staff came over and worked it out correctly. I thought he would apologise, or laugh off his mistake, or something, but he was really stony-faced as we left and I couldn't help but think we had offended him somehow, and it's a shame this was our parting memory of Candidasa. I'd like to think we were just a bit unlucky with our experience at the Grand Natia, as it does have its positive points and it's good value... I certainly don't want this review to put anyone off staying there. Candidasa reminded me of when I visited Lovina last year, in that both places have plenty to offer but desperately need more tourists.
The drive to the airport was fine and quite quick, so we arrived with plenty of time to wander around the shops and get something to eat. Before we knew it, we were on the flight back to Singapore, and then home to Manchester, having had a fantastic time in a beautiful place full of friendly people... and already wishing we could go back!