First some background. I'm a long time bali vistor, first time was in '84. Last trip 2 years ago.
This trip is for 16nts, flying GA.
Not including accomm and big purchases the budget is 1.5 million RP per day.
Traveling with the missus + kids 11 & 14. Most of the time with 2 other families, so we would have to ask for seating for 14 in restaurants.
I've stayed in all hotel standards from losmens with mandies to 5+star. I like a bargain but don't mind being extravagant also.
I'm one of those tedious people who are always saying ‘it used to be like this..it was better when', but don't get me wrong ,
I understand change is inevitable and who am I to lecture the Balinese about their own island and tourist industry. I used to worry that tourism may some how hurt Balinese culture, but I don't anymore. It's way to strong to be bothered by some pesky tourists and one of it's strengths is it's constant adaption and appropriation of outside influences.
So we (we & us being Bali goers in general) all love the chaos at immigration and getting the VOA, it always bemuses us that they have 12 (or so) booths but usually have only 4 very officious officials officiating in their important uniforms and banging the big important stamp and taking their time like they're on Bali time or something.
At first you think there are no real lines and there is always a little bit of argy bargy, and uptight people huffing and puffing, but then the line sort of coalesces and you are in one and then you stand and don't move and think.'this is going to take for ever' but I noticed you start to imperceptibly move..shuffle about 35cms at a time. Bit by bit...but before I could get too interested in the big screen TV at the front of the hall playing the most bizarre indo soap .....I remembered there is away to get through all this in under 10 mins and not the 45min average.
Now I know this forum is designed to share information
but
I'm not telling you WHO you pay and HOW MUCH to get sent straight through like a VIP, or diplomat or someone with premature Bali belly ‘cause then everyone would do it and the scam would be over and I'd have to wait in line like everybody else.
Anyway I paid my money and was through in a record 7 mins.
I use the prepaid Taxi service (turn right as you come out of the arrival hall) 55K to Legian
The first ride in a taxi and the feelings start to come back, ‘I'm here, I'm back, ..nice' then I start getting into survival mode' where are the passports , where is the cash and key cards..gotta get some water, gotta get my head around the RP again..all those 00000's.
I love watching my kids take it all in (6th time for the older boy, but 14 is a great age this time).
First up stayed at the Maharta beach hotel. (3 nights at the start 5 at the end) It's 75USD for a room that fits all 4 of us. I love this hotel, It's one of only 2 (the other is the Sari beach) that is an old style, small place right on the beach at Legian. It's next to the nikosoma and near the Padma, Mandira, puri raja etc.
But I found out that the place has been sold and bought/gobbled up be the Nikosoma, so it is shutting in about October, all 40 staff gone, some with 20ys service ..out.
The end is in sight for the small hotels on the beach, end of an era, it's sad cause I liked the hotel, suited me fine.. the best word to describe it's demise is - inevitable.
At home I often think about the nasi campur at Mades warung, so that's what I had for my first dinner, on the way home the daughter lost our camera, I angrily retraced our steps, back to the Bintang supermarket..but it's lost. Deep breath, get over it, go to bed.
Friends arrived today so I won't see much of my kids again for the duration, they'll be off happily having fun, we give them a fare amount of freedom in what I consider ‘relatively safe' Bali. The oldest of the kids is 17, so she plays mother hen for the younger ones (youngest 8).
Go to La lucciolas for dinner (kids stay at home) but the missus is struck down with what turns out to be a 24 hour bug. She's all dressed up and ready to go, looking fine at the table but unfortunately has to go home, misses out on the always nice time at la luc.
It is good but turns out not be my favorite meal I will have while on this trip.
We brought with us about 200 soccer balls and jerseys to give to a school in candi dasa.
Candi dasa used to have a great beach and was a good beach destination in Bali, but they dug up the reef, which resulted in destroying the beach, then to try and fix it up the built all these sea walls that further wrecked the place. I'm not exaggerating and I'm not complaining, it's a fact., the best word to describe it is - stupid and dumb, ok that's 3 words. Happens all around the world - hello Nossa??
Anyway my point is when I go to Candi das I remember what it was once like and know it's this kinda ghost town, not many people, empty hotels but still trading on it's reputation. Well, it's still sorta OK, it's a nice area in general.
The Lotus Café used to be on the waters edge, but they have built a bigger sea wall in front of it, they must be spewing. But Still ate there cause I like the desserts.
We did a great snorkel, hired 3 boats wheent out to the 3 rocky island and the to a place they call ‘the blue lagoon', good shallow area, saw some reef sharks, turtles, small reef fish.
I'de rate candi dasi as a good snorkel spot, especially for novices but not as good as Menjangan Island (the BEST place with a reef then a ocean drop off that's accessible from the beach) and then the Amed area (esp. the liberty ship wreck,- awesome)
We then went and dropped the ball's off at the school. We made a bit ceremony off it, photo's etc and then they took us on a tour of their village.
Now this was highlight of the trip.
I was not aware of this place but it is very well preserved example of a traditional Balinese village. The layout and the range of structures was textbook and it was a fully functioning village, not some museum piece.
The school itself was situated in front of a huge 500 year old banyan tree.
I love banyan tree's and this one was a very venerable old fellow indeed. I spent a good half hour communing with it (yes - I am weird!)
There were a number of other tourists walking around so I figure it must be a known place, highly recommended.
Next day off to Ubud.
I like Ubud.
I'm an Ubud person, I don't like Kuta (kinda do but more on that later)
When I dream of Bali I am in the hills around Ubud, or at the Puri Saraswati hotel, on the royal palace grounds, hearing the tinkle of Gamelan in the distance, imagining that I'm visiting Walter Spies at the tjampuan, going to that temple down near the bridge.
Anyway..ahh I'm home.
BUT, man.. the traffic has gotten worse ( but it has everywhere, don't bother with a taxi from Seminyak to Kuta, JL legian is a carpark these day's)
Stayed at the Cendana Hotel on Monkey F Rd. About 70USD per night with b/fast. It's a great mid range place that I recommend..
First up went and got me some Bubu guling (roast pig) at Ubi Oki (or whatever it's called)
Then settled in for a disturbed sleep
with a dream about volcanoes a chicken and boat full of head hunters
.. that would prove to be eerily prophetic
*******TO BE CONTINUED.