When I started planning this trip it was largely because I saw Bali as a 'soft' travel option as a first o'seas trip for my 2 1/2 year old son.
Now that I'm back, I'd like to recant that, it's not the soft option, it's the beautiful option.
We flew out on Jet* on March 10th, flight was easy, no delays, arrived early. Got out visas etc with no drama (took about 30 mins total to clear customs etc).
Outside into the humidity and that ever so familiar Bali smell, incense and gadang (sp?) ciggarettes. Our driver was there so we headed straight for Ubud.
Let me preface, I'd visited Ubud before, fleetingly, but had never stayed there or spent anything other than a few hours there. Ohmygoodness, I just adore the place.
We stayed for 4 nights at Ubud Bungalows- when I die, this is my idea of heaven. Ubud felt comfortable to me, like a well worn pair of jeans, soft in all the right places but a bit ragged on the edges (if that makes sense?). It was the perfect start to our trip.
We did some shopping, went to the monkey forest, up to the volcano. my son, at 2 1/2 is the BEST travel buddy I have ever had, he was fantastic, he was like a little sponge soaking everything up, drinking it in. We ate incredible food (Cafe Wayan for an expensive but seriously delcious smoked duck).
Ubud markets were great, learned that if you head upstairs you can bargain more, particularly in the day before Nyepi, business was slow. Got some beautiful things and was happy with the prices I paid.
From Ubud we headed down to Tanjung Benoa for the next 4 nights- wowsers, the Novotel surpassed all my expectations. The room (tropical terrace) was lovely, the pool was PERFECT for us, it was quiet yet busy all at the same time.
We were in TB for Ogoh Ogoh and Nyepi. We saw the Ogoh Ogoh parade- initially we went with a group from the hotel but the rows of plastic chairs were just a little too homogonised for me- so my boy and I headed over to hang with the locals. Ate 1000rp icecreams while sitting in the dirt with the local kids- heavenly.
Nyepi was amazing. Particularly the evening, the hotel had candles to light the way, the front of the hotel was covered with white sheets- it was litle something out of a movie. I love that I was able to be there for Nyepi and to teach my son a little about it.
I taught my son the art of the one hour breakfast- eat slowly eat LOTS.
From Tanjung benoa we headed over to Sanur for our last 2 nights. Stayed at Sanur Beach Villas (ahh bloodyron you are a lovely man) fabulous, friendly easy place. My boy made a friend there and got quite upset when we had to leave.
We backtracked to Ubud for a quick trip so I could hunt down a painting I'd seen for sale on the side of the road (found it- it's fantastic!) and also went to the Safari and Marine Park- this was great with a kidlet, he had a ball. Highlight was getting to feed the elephants and meeting "effie" the orangutang.
945pm flight home, jet* again, left on time, uneventful really. Little one slept, I didn't. Cleared customs and it was back to the "real" world for us.
Truly, this trip is the best trip I've ever been on. I got to just *be* with my son, I got to be in a place where I feel a different kind of peace. I got to be around people who fill their space with calm, with beauty.
I'm already planning the next trip- would like to head over for a month or so, explore the area around Ubud a little more. Gorgeous place.