Spent three weeks in Bali (Sanur, Candi Dasa & Ubud) from 15th August to 5th Sept.
My wife & I wanted to re-capture the feel of our pre-child travelling days & we also wanted to ensure a family-friendly experience for our 5 YO daughter.
Although we have travelled to about 40 countries across 6 continents, this was our 1st visit to Bali & we were sceptical having heard so many extreme reactions from trusted friends - 'go, its wonderful, you'll love it' to 'don't go its awful, you'll hate it'. After much research we decided to find out for ourselves.
We discovered two Balis (which accounts for the extreme reactions): 1) the Greater Kuta bogan ghetto and 2) the rest of Bali. The former wasn't for us & the latter was ideal. We were very happy with our choices of destination, accommodation and activities and are already planning next year's visit.
Here's a summary (feel free to ask any questions):
**TRANSPORT**
Jet* from Melbourne (I would avoid overnight flight back if ever possible).
Various drivers organised thru hotels (Ru 200k to 400k for xfers & daytrips).
Occasional metered taxis.
**SANUR**
•Stayed 2br Emerald Apartment at Villa Puri Ayu.
•Dinner at Massimos, Caramel, Natah Bale, Charming, Mezzanine.
•Lunch at Beach Café (twice), Donalds.
Meals excellent at Massimos, Caramel, Charming, Mezzanine Beach Café.
Activities:
•Bike rides up the beach-side path to Beach Café for lunch.
•Day trip to Bukit Peninsular (early to Jimbaran fish market, Ulu Watu, Balangan Beach, lunch at Jimbaran Bay).
•Safari & Marine Park (daughter loved it).
•Waterbom park (daughter loved it).
•A quick look at Seminyak, Legian, Kuta (glad to get out of there).
Didn't like money changers: experienced two attempts at short changing & heard lots of similar stories form other travellers. This appears to be a widespread problem in Sanur. In the end used Kodak shops & booth outside Hardies which had lower rates but at least they weren't crooks! After this, used ATMs.
**CANDI DASA**
•Stayed Suite 2A/2B at Aquaria.
•Dinner at Aquaria (4 times!), SeaSalt (at Alila) & Vincents.
•Lunch at Le 48 & Rendezous.
Meals excellent at Aquaria & SeaSalt. Would have tried Le48 for dinner, but opens too late for daughter (7pm). Vincents disappointing.
Activities:
•Bemo to Amlapura local market.
•Day trip to Tirtagannga & Amed areas (excellent snorkelling off Jemeluk Beach), back via coast road. Disappointing lunch at place recommended by Lonely Planet - (Cafe Garmun?).
•Trip to White Sand Beach.
•Trip to Padangbai.
•Snorkelling around CD breakwater.
Candi Dasa a bit dull, but loved staying at Aquaria. Was happy with CD as a central base to explore the East Coast rather than a destination in itself.
**UBUD**
•Stayed Green Fields in Bale Bintang room (loved the Rice Paddy views, staff & free transport to/from town).
•Dinner at Warung Enak (twice), Three Monkeys, Café Wayan, The Pond, Pizza Bagus (delivered to room), Laka Leke (with Barong performance).
•Lunch at Pundi Pundi,.Tucman, Kafe, Sari Organic (amid rice fields).
Best meals Warung Enak, Three Monkeys, Café Wayan. Enjoyed the fresh lunches at Tucman, Kafe & Sari Organic. Best coffee at Tucman.
Activities:
•Bali Budaya bike ride (Kintamani to Ubud).
•Bali Zoo (very hands-on!).
•Watching dance lessons at Ubud Palace.
•Monkey Forest.
•Ubud Market (early morning local market before daytime tourist market).
•Campuan Ridge walk as described Lonely Planet (early start, breakfast at Klub Kokos, back via rice fields behind Mozaic, down Campuan steps).
•Taro Elephant Park (daugher loved it).
•Lots of shopping.
Found Ubud surprisingly busy & commercial after CD, but Greenfields view helped.
Altogether a great holiday that gave everyone a bit of what they wanted. Our daughter didn't want to go prior to the trip (she was worried about not being able to drink tap water) & she had a bit of culture shock at times (e.g. local markets). But the Balinese loved her & she loved them & in the end she didn't want to come home (‘lets miss the plane'!).