JBR - a couple of weeks late
Once again off on our yearly holidays. Surprise surprise Bali bound again. After our enjoyable trip last year chose to go again and have a look at a few different places. Flew via Malaysian Airlines Adelaide to KLIA and overnighted in the Concord hotel a 5 minute free shuttle bus ride away and only a third of the cost compared to staying at the airport Pan Pacific hotel. The standard room was adequate and the buffet breakfast rather good. Back to KLIA for our morning flight to Denpasar. Got through the airport system in around thirty minutes, which included getting our VOA and having to fill out a swine flue questionnaire.
Found our driver Dewa (pre-arranged) and we were off. Changed some money in Kuta and headed off to Tanah Lot. Stayed at the Dewi Shinta Hotel; Double Standard Room cost Rp 330,000 per night including breakfast. A bit of a tourist trap this area but as we hadn't been there before did the tourist thing, temples, sunsets etc. Dined the first night at the Hotel, food okay but the Bintangs were expensive or should I say one L Bintang at Rp 37, 000. Could get them for Rp 20,000 in a minimart up the road. Found a local warung for lunch the next day great food and L Bintangs for Rp 20,000 so guess what we had dinner there as well. Dewa picked us up in the morning and we were off to Ubud.
I had tried to book into the Tegal Sari but they were fully booked for months so stayed at the Puri Dalem Cottages in a Double Deluxe Pool view Room at Rp 350,000 per night including breakfasts and we were here for a week. Great room large King-size Bed and a Large Refrigerator. Had dinner the first night at Cafe Tegal the hotel restaurant; food okay but nothing to write home about. A Delta store adjacent the hotel had L Bintangs for Rp 18,500 and cheaper than the Circle K. Breakfasts were taken in an alcove over looking the pool. Fairly standard; juice or fresh fruit, nasi or mei goreng or omelette or toast. Kopi and tea was help your self.
Next day walked up Monkey Forest road past the soccer field and onto the markets opposite the Palace. For lunch it was a return to Ibu Oka's Warung and Babi Guling the legendry 'suckling pig'. Walked back to the Puri Dalem via Jalan Hannoman and on the way pre-ordered (Deposit Rp 50,000) for the following night the smoked duck at the Bebek Bengil (The original Dirty Duck Diner). Lounged around the pool for the arvo. That night dined at the Abian Restaurant (Tegal-Sari); always-good food. After breakfast the next day did a bit of pool lounging before going south for a walk. On the return journey had lunch again at the Albian and caught up with some of the staff from our stay their last year. That night off to the Bebek Bengil and our smoked duck. This dish has to be ordered the day before as to takes about four hours to cook. It is not the crispy duck but more smoked and steamed with Balinese spices. The whole duck came with side dishes and rice a couple of fruit juices. I must say it was truly delicious and so tender the meat literally fell off the bones and worth every penny and streets ahead of the crispy duck. Next day off to the markets again and lunch at Nomads and back to the pool for the arvo and dinner at the restaurant opposite the Puri Padi which incidentally has a new roof. It was inevitable a visit to the Monkey forest. Had been their once before in 2002 on a tour but this time no rush. Not really any expectations but enjoyed the visit. Saw some realistic Komodo dragon statues, plenty of monkeys, got rid of the bananas fairly early on didn't want to get bitten and I saw several tourists get bites. Watched a monkey strip a coconut, puncture it's top drink the milk and then proceeded to eat the flesh. Saw a large number of monkeys mainly younger ones playing games on a tree over a pond, which they were jumping into. Had another great meal upstairs at Warung Enuk. Fantastic food and worth paying that little extra for.
GADO-GADO PENGANTIN Shredded Lettuce, White Cabbage, Cucumber, Potato, Egg, Bean Sprout And Tomato Tossed With Red Peanut Sauce. Rp. 25.000
AYAM MADU KATULISTIWA KALIMANTAN Pan Fry Chicken Marinated With Coriander, Cumin, Honey And Palm Sugar.Rp. 58.000
TIMBUNGAN BABI BALI Stewed Pork Spear Ribs With Bumbu Gede And Young Papaya Served With Steamed Rice. Rp. 58.000
Next day walked down to the monkey forest and went down the motorbike path coming out south of the forest through rice paddies and duck farms. Did a two-hour loop walk on a number of small roads. You certainly get a good insight into local life. Back to the pool and had dinner again at the Tegal Sari. The following day our last in Ubud was spent at the pool but we headed back to Warung Enuk for dinner and from the menu we had...
BABI KECAP BALI Stewed Pork Belly In Sweet Soy Sauce Flavoured With Nutmeg And Tomato. Rp. 60.000
SAMBAL GORENG UDANG / CENTRAL JAVA Prawn In Spice Coconut Broth With Snow Peas, Baby Potato, Quail Egg And Steamed Rice. Rp. 69.000
The days were going quick; nine days in. Would recommend the Puri Dalem as a nice budget place to stay even if the Restaurant not that flash as plenty of eating places are within walking distance. Great helpful staff. Our driver picked us up at 10 am and it was off to Lovina for the next 14 nights.
Puri Bali Lovina in a Double 'Deluxe A' Downstairs room at Rp 280,000 a night including breakfast. Breakfasts were basic, juice or fruit and nasi goreng or toast and eggs any style and tea and Kopi. Large room with shower and bath; A/C but no fridge. (Bad research on my part) Great pool area with metal lounges but okay if you used two pool mattresses. We never had lunch or dinner at this hotel as the menu didn't do much for us. As soon as we had settled in it was off to lunch and came upon a little warung with the name Warung-Apple. It is opposite the Astina restaurant. Not an extensive menu but our first meal was so fresh we knew it wasn't to be our last. They had a happy hour running from 5-7pm with L Bintangs at Rp15,000. My sort of price and as our room had no fridge I was there at five every night. Days generally comprised breakfast and lounging around the pool then usually went for a walk for 1-2 hours before lunch and always at Warung-Apple. It is run by Ayu and her Husband Gede or Apple. They have three lovely children who were often there as it was school holidays.
Initially starting going to various eateries at night. First might went to the Jasmine Kitchen a Thai restaurant on Jalan Lovina, it came well recommended but really rather ordinary although the lemongrass tea was nice. I noticed that the Funky Monkey next door is now closed. The second night went to the Khi Khi seafood restaurant; great fresh fish although the beer wasn't that cold. Dined at the Oldies the next night and then the Barcelona, which wasn't too bad. Returned to the Khi Khi and what a disaster the fish was terrible it was a soft flesh thing that had been frozen. Never again.
So five nights in started going to Warung-Apple for dinner. You could pre order fish the day before and they would by a fresh whole fish from the market the next day. The fish was more that enough for two and came with nasi goreng and vegetables and all for Rp 70-80,000 depending on the size of the fish. Ordered a steamed chicken one day before a got one so big we couldn't finish it. The evening routine was a large Bintang or two at Warung-Apple and then down to watch the locals play volley-ball either from the Bintang-Bali or the Tropis-Club all happy hour prices the same. Volleyball finished as the sunset and it was back to warung-Apple's for Dinner where generally you would pay happy hour prices all night. Also noticed that a number of ex-pats would eat here so must be good and cheap.
Went on two tours with Apple one west towards Java (temples/monkeys/coast line and the other east through Singarajah (Lion King) and up into the hills. Did a little shopping here and probably cheaper than kuta. Sarong, clothing for the grandchildren and a couple of silver anklets for the better-half.
Did the Dolphin watching thing. The local Boat captains have a cartel going fixed price Rp 60,000 per person for a two hour trip. The boats are more like outrigger canoes with seagull outboards. Six am start and fifty or so boats with between two and four passengers each head out in a westerly direction. Peaceful at first cruising along watching the sunrise. Then some dolphins are sighted and bedlam. All the boats seem to converge on one another trying to get close to the Dolphins. Luckily that day there were literally hundreds of them. I have seen some posts where people have stated that the Dolphins get exhausted by being chased. Let me tell you the Dolphins are a lot faster than the boats and did not appear to be stressed at all. Had a break with kopi, tea and pisang goreng before heading back to shore and breakfast.
I have always wanted to go and see a cockfight. Apple took me to one on the back of his motorbike. I thought it would be a bit touristy but no not at all. Some four hundred locals including the local Mafia in attendance and only one tourist-me. Yes I know you think it is cruel but it is a Bali tradition and the winner's owner gets the loser as well - Chicken curry. Some fights lasted only thirty seconds; those knives are sharp. Not nearly as drawn out and cruel as Bull fights in Spain; yes been there. Won a couple of hundred thousand Rp on bets. There was also some sort of gambling game going as well. The only women present were selling food and some clothing.
Our time in Lovina seemed to pass so quickly. Apple drove us back to Kuta although had problems in some road works where we were sideswiped a couple of times from passing buses. Luckily not too much damage I think it was the types that scraped the side. Black marks rather than dents but still a little scary.
Our first stay in down town Kuta, although have stayed in Legian at the Jayakata in 2003. Six nights then at the Balisandy Cottages located off poppies lane 11 in a Double Deluxe Room AC at Rp 375,0000 including breakfast. Breakfasts interesting if you stayed in the standard room your options were juice or fresh fruit followed by either toast and jam or a pancake and tea and Kopi. As we were in the delux room we had the option of nasi or mei goreng as well but had to pay extra if we wanted eggs. The hotel dining room was being extended so fairly noisy when brick walls were being knocked down. Had lunch at Warung 96, plenty of young Aussies hanging out there bit the food was crap. The place next door is better for food but has less ambiance.
Shopping, DVD's, PC games, made to order leather jackets Rp 800,000 One each, French's owner Mat Rini recognised us from 2003 and by the way those jackets still doing fine. Also had a handmade pair of leather boots made from Roni just of Poppies Lane 11 near our hotel. Owner Roni is a nice lad and does good stuff.
Exchange rates over the month Rp 8000 increasing to Rp 8300 and Rp 8500 in those little shoe shops with Rp 10-20,000 notes. Stayed clear of those. Big variation in L Bintang prices. Restaurant prices L Bintang Rp 20,000-37,000 with a lot at Rp 25,000. Delta stores Rp 18,500, Circle-K Rp 19,500.
Happy Hours Lovina Rp 15,000 Kuta Rp 16-18,000.
Well that's it day 30 maximum use on the VOA. Noon flight to KLIA and the red-eye special back to Adelaide. Freezing cold and wet. June is a great month to spend in Bali. No rain, humidity relatively low and generally accommodation prices lower than July.