A late JBR from June.and some pics
Seven of us from Adelaide took off in June for 3 weeks back in our favourite island, 4 experienced , 1 been once and 2 first timers, so a lot of organizing accommodation etc. (about 150 emails)
We decide on the east coast as we had been all around the west last year.
We started at Melasti Beach Resort, as it was central and fairly cheap. Quite enjoyed it, but probably will stay elsewhere next time.
We really liked the 66 beach strip of restaurants, Zanzibar, Lanai etc.
We had 4 nights to organize the cars, tailors etc and show the newies around Kuta area.
All that was done smoothly thanks to Janoko and Nyoman at Sari Bunga Wangi and we headed off in our 2 Kijangs for Candi Dasa and 2 nights at Villa Sassoon, a great choice with double villas each, comprising of 2 bedrooms and a kitchen/living area surounding a private pool. They were beautifully appointed and a very relaxing way to start our trip. We visited the Aga village and White Sands Beach and enjoyed both, especially the road? down to the beach. First night we ate at Vincent's which was up to it's usual high standards and the next night , had a meal cooked in our villa, eating around the pool ,which was brilliant. We topped up on supplies here, there was a big shortage of Mansion House gin in Kuta, and we got the last 2 bottles in Candi. We asked how many bottles of Bintang to a carton, and were told '16'. We thought this an odd number but ordered one anyway. Out they came with a carton of 12, and 4 loose bottles looking as if this was perfectly normal!! Only in Bali. Still, can't have too much Bintang.
Then we headed up,up,up the hills to Sidemen and Villa Cepik, set in a magnificent valley, photos galore. The villas were very nice, but either I am getting fussier, or we had eaten very well to this point, the food was disappointing. 4 of us stayed there and 3 just up the road at Ume Ayung, a lovely place with great views of Agung, but same story with the food. We had pre arranged in Kuta to be picked up from here to go rafting on the Telaga Waja, which was quite close. It was great fun as usual, especially the 4 metre drop at the end,followed by an impressive meal, worked off by climbing the 606 steps (yes I counted)
Next was Amed via Tirta Gangga and a variety of roads ending up at a village with the aptly named 'Place for Asking Café'. After asking we eventually found our way and 3 nights at Blue Moon Villas, once again a fantastic choice, great location, rooms, pool etc with very friendly staff.
We occupied most of the place, with only one Canadian couple there. Hope we didn't shatter their peace too much. The food here was really good, and again the staff superb, we even ended up with Gilang and Ilu playing guitar and singing into the night. We would definitely recommend Blue Moon. I hired a bike and took off down the south coast for a ride, really enjoyed that.
Got some good shots of the boats coming into shore one morning, what a colourful sight.
We had one meal at Sails Restaurant overlooking the bay, what a highlight, the view, food and staff. We had bought some French Champagnes from home and they chilled and served them for us, no problems! We snorkelled by the Japanese submarine but it was a little too choppy, however after lunch at Pondok Vienna the snorkeling just off the beach was terrific.
I bought a bag of Amed salt, which the others were convinced I would not get through customs, we'll see.
After a relaxing and really enjoyable stay, we took off for Toya Bungkah and our climb up Gunung Batur. The Lakeside Cottages were in fantastic location, but that's where the superlatives end. Won't go into too much detail, but dinner for 7 including drinks came to only Rp 22,000, and the food was quite good.
We were woken at 3.20 and after a quick coffee, it was off to the climb. I think it was a good thing it was dark, because if we saw it in daylight we may not have done it. The guides were great, always assuring us it was 'only 15 more minutes'. Still we believed them and eventually we made it to the top. Our soreness instantly gave way to awe of the view. After a bit of haze cleared it was an amazing sight, from Lombok to the east, Agung to the south and Catur west with vivid colours, all above the clouds. A truly memorable experience and one I am rapt we did and will never forget.
We had breakfast of eggs and bananas, cooked by the steam of the volcano ,which was good and much needed. The climb down was longer, but it was a beautiful day, so we enjoyed it.
The girls had pre decided, not to stay in Toya Bunkgah, so, a quick call to David, and we were off for an unexpected stay at Pacung Indah. We somehow found our way there, stopping to look at the new bungalow project en route. We had a good lunch with that great view in front of us, and just relaxed for the rest of the day, had a good meal and were in bed at 9pm! Stuffed
After a good breakfast we headed up to Candi Kuning with David to see the almost finished Top Deck Restaurant. They were finishing the floor and it looks to be very impressive when open , one for our next visit.. It was good to see David and Pacung again, but it was time to head to Ubud for the next leg.
Back to Hotel Tjampuhan and Eustace, who welcomed us. It's a bit like coming home really. We had lunch at Café Indus and dinner at Lotus, both good.
Next day the girls hit the market and streets, so Joe and I sneaked off to Cinta ,a nice little café for a couple of bevvies. Eventually the girls found us and it was off to meet the others at Dragonfly for lunch. They were really enjoying the shopping, (Lia spent 1.5 million Rp. on jewellery over the road in between ordering and receiving lunch)
That night was dinner at Mozaic, our favourite. We dropped in a Piper Heidseck and Bollinger during the day and we had them served in the front lounge which has been set up superbly, before heading down to dinner. We all went for the Surprise menu, which was , as usual, absolutely brilliant. Can't miss coming here. We had rain in between course 3 & 4 but they had us all inside in same seating order and all drinks in place within 2 minutes. (they set the restaurant twice for such times) Next day we drove up to Tampaksiring and back through Teggallalang and to The Viceroy for lunch, What a view, what a lunch, what a villa (at a trifling $US 2,800++ a night)
Dinner at Tropical Bale, which was very nice, maybe a little too much emphasis on presentation, but the food was good, especially dessert. Really unusual toilets too, you will have to go there to find out.
Next morning 4 of us did the ridge walk at 6 am , which was invigourating. After breakfast we headed south of Ubud to some small, and large, galleries, then off to Mozaic for the cooking school.
James Ephraim met us and we spent 4 hours making a beautiful 3 course meal which we demolished afterwards. It was a good course and it made us appreciate the effort they go to in the kitchen.
Almost all their ingredients are imported, including the huge duck breasts from France we cooked.
We then went up the road for one of Naughty Nuri's killer cocktails, the place buzzing as usual, the cocktails killers as usual.
Four days in Ubud went quickly and it was back to Kuta, drop off the cars , pick up the bikes and off to Poppies Cottages. It was our first stay there, and we will be back. It's beautifully landscaped and so peaceful, considering the buzz only metres away. The breakfasts over in the restaurant were excellent.
We had 3 days of the usual last minute shopping frenzy and deciding where to eat.
It all went too quickly, and it was time to go. Unfortunately Qantas had other ideas, after advising the plane was delayed from 1 am to 3.30 am, then at 3.30 being told it was cancelled. After a couple of hours of confusion we ended up in the Sanur Beach Hotel for a few hours sleep and back for the flight at 5.30 pm. We arrived in Perth about 9 pm and could not continue to Adelaide as it was too late, so a night in Perth it was, and home the next day. A trifling 39 hours to get home.
Not a great way to finish, but it did not spoil the fantastic 3 weeks in the Isle of Smiles.
Some of the highlights -
Dinner at The Breeze with cocktails at La Lucciola before for Lia's birthday. The food, setting on the beach and especially the staff were absolutely brilliant.
Blue Moon at Amed, ditto with the staff and the relaxed atmosphere of Amed
Sails restaurant, Amed
The Batur climb, just awesome
Mozaic Restaurant as usual
Ketupat, always good Indonesian food, great setting.
Poppies Cottages, glad we finally stayed there.
And , in no particular order, TJ's, Lanai, Zanzibar, Ocean Beach Club, Rosso Vivo, Klungkung markets, fishing at Candi Dasa (no fish), Cooking school at Mozaic, Villa Sassoon, Tjampuhan.
But most of all, the Balinese people and the magnificent island they love.
I've posted some photos on http://travel.web shotsdotcom/album/568100215nLyPQA
I hope you weren't too bored with my ramblings, but it is hard not to get enthusiastic when recalling Bali trips.
Cheers
Rodger, Lia, Sue, Joe, Deb, Ross & Iris