This is long and the final JBR. Hope those that read it enjoy.. :-)
While I had been in Bali a very dear friend at home was a bit unwell. When you are far away and the unexpected happens and you care a lot about them, the distance seems wider and the problem worse. I guess it's at times like this you realize the value you place on a mate and determine what they really mean to you. Ian, this one is for you.
Wednesday October 4th
Raels last day had arrived. I had a miraculous overnight recovery and woke up feeling fine. I decided that I would spend part of the day with her doing whatever it was she wanted and at 9.00am wandered up to Suri Wathi to meet her. She was packed and showered and ready to go. Our first stop was to get a wood carving wrapped so we stopped off at Sita Fashion on Jalan Legian where they sell pottery and will package goods for you for a small charge. We told them we would return in an hour or so to collect it and made our way to Bali Cyber Café as Raels needed to check her emails before returning home [she has no computer]. Upon arrival back at Sita Fashion her wood carving is all protected in bubble wrap ready for the journey later that night. Price for packaging was 20,000rp. The carving was roughly 3 feet long and about 10 inches wide. Our next port of call was to drop off the carving back at Suri and then head off to the beach. It was a glorious afternoon and the breeze on the beach took the edge off the midday heat.
The one thing I loathe about the beach in Bali is the constant parade of passing sellers. Raels had ended up beaching it most days with Sticky not far from Jalan Melasti and now being a regular down here she assures me there will be no hassling. I admit it; I was charmed by a very lovely group of people with whom she had made friends. In previous trips Raels had normally hung out further up the beach toward Kuta. She had brought over gifts for those people she had known for some 5 years. She was saddened by their attitude when she had handed things out. Some items like a wallet were scoffed at by one woman who didn't like it and another who brazenly challenged her saying "why don't you give that top to me?"
As we sit on the beach I meet Susan, one of Raels new buddies. She has received a letter from friends in Australia and Raels has offered to help her write a letter and post it on her return. A simple gesture but the genuine gratitude shown by Susan was really lovely. We are left in peace in the sunshine and in the distance we watch as plane after plane after plane approach to land. The waves roll into the shore as constantly as those aircraft high up in the sky. We wonder where the people on those planes disappearing to are. The Kuta / Legian area is most certainly dead. After some 3 hours lazing around I decide I will leave Raels to say her goodbyes to her friends. I know she is dreading the time as she hasn't yet been able to tell them she is leaving tonight.
I head back to meet Anna and Al in Billy's but run into them at Dolphin, so I join them for a drink and a chat before stopping in to see Dede at Bali Gong. I have the last minute requests from friends and need to pick up some dvd's and a playstation game. Unfortunately there is no stock but Dede assures me they will be in tomorrow and he will hold them for me. Wandering into Billy's I sit down and order a very cold Bintang and chat with Jack and Elvis - aka Gecko. While sitting there enjoying the Bintang Raels reappears. It is close to 5.00pm and I ask her how the farewells went at the beach. She confessed that she only told one of them, who in turn would break the news to the others. She couldn't bear having to say goodbye to them all, she is such a softy.
The previous night Katak had offered to drive Raels to the airport and I was meeting him at 6pm back at Hidden Garden Villa. Raels and I both leave the bar, arranging that Katak and I would collect her luggage from Suri Wathi and meet back at Billy's for last drinks around 7.00pm.
On arrival back at the villa I walk through the double doors to find a huge arrangement of flowers that had been delivered earlier in the day. They are from Helen back home. She had arranged through the owners for the manager Agus to organize them for my birthday. Thanks again Helen, you saw the photo. It was a lovely surprise and they were beautiful. Your turn soon... :- )
Katak arrives shortly after and I run upstairs to quickly shower and change. Everything is a rush, time of the essence so we don't hang about too long before driving to Suri Wathi to collect the luggage. We have maybe 90 minutes if we push the envelope and what the hell let's push. We sit and chat with Anna and Al, about the funny days and nights spent together, but finally when your time is up then you have to go. Raels is saying her goodbyes to the staff. We have a last minute photo taken of us all together at the bar then into the car and off. Everything seems to be fast forwarding and we arrive at the airport very quickly. We make our farewell short so that neither of us will have time to shed a tear. I watch as Raels makes her way to the departure entrance and give one last wave before leaving.
Neither Katak or I have eaten so we stop to buy noodles, sate and bourbon for a quiet night in at the Villa. Tomorrow is my last day and I just want to relax and talk with my friend.
'D' Day - Departure day
33 days, 15 mates from home, 20 bottles of Jimmy, 12 Champagne, 4 casks wine, 2 Vodka and 1 Vermouth is the body count.
Things to do, places to go, people to meet. I had woken early and packed clothing and items I would not need later that evening. It is always the fiddly last minute things that get to me. As I have said previously, I am not always patient.
My old man used to say never let little things gnaw away at you so that they fester and grow. You will never see the bigger picture while you keep hold of crap like that in your heart or your head. It will become all encompassing and you will never see beyond it or around it. He was right you know. I am still learning in Bali to TRY to let things wash over me, but so many times have done my head in trying to work out what the hell is going on. Culturally so different, it is sometimes a gesture, a look, or words said too harshly that make westerners seem inept and insensitive to the Balinese. However, it is other times when you least expect something that there seems to be no cultural divide.
Sitting downstairs sipping coffee while waiting for breakfast and Katak to arrive, Agus and Wayan [from the villa] enter through the side door. I look up from reading an sms thinking my scrambled eggs and bacon is being brought to me, but no they present me with a scrumptious white mud cake topped with strawberries and a single candle. The two of them are singing happy birthday. But wait, there's more. What else does a girl need but cake? A bottle of Jim Beam of course!! My thanks and gratitude again to the staff and owners of the villa for this second surprise. It was never expected but very gratefully received. By the way breakfast arrived shortly after as did Katak, who was eyeing off the cake!
We have some errands to run and I had written a list. Oh god where is the list. Nup, can't find the list, had the list. The list was right here in front of me. .." Katak, have you got the list...arrrgh forget it I will wing it"... Without the list I manage to forget to do three things, but don't even realize this until I am already back in Australia.
Of the things I do remember to do, one is to top up my sim card with credit for 6 months, another is to go to the internet and search out some information to print off for Katak. We also return to Centro. I wanted to go back and buy a handbag, a gift for a friend. This turned out to be a futile expedition as the entire handbag area had been rearranged and I couldn't find the one I had seen 3 weeks earlier. Katak waited patiently while I walk around in circles looking, looking but to no avail. Giving up I moved on to the shoe department. Katak sat himself on one of the chairs in the middle of the shoes. He is quite oblivious that he is the only male within a 20 foot radius. One of the shop assistants approaches him asking if he needs help. Startled, he shakes his head and laughing says ..." oh no, you have nothing in my size.." The young female shop assistant giggles. While I try on about 6 different pairs he critiques and gives me the thumbs up or down. I settle on 2 pairs and then we escape. I have had enough running around and decide to return to the villa so we can just sit and relax for a while before I commence the final pack.
Over the next couple of hours between my packing, people come and go to say farewell. My mobile has driven me nuts half the afternoon with birthday wishes from friends in Oz and in Bali. I had gotten to the point where I could no longer take the time to reply as I was starting to run behind schedule, a few last minute glitches. Finally, my mad panic over, why did I ever think it would all fit in one bag? I should know better!! I ask Nyoman and Katak to fill glasses for everyone with bourbon and coke and kill the last bottle before leaving for Billy's and Legend.
Nyoman, Ketut, Wayan, Katak, Kadek, Agus, Wayan and I sit for the last time on the verandah of the Pickled Gecko, [my nickname for Hidden Garden] and toast to yet another too fast - too furious, fun filled holiday. It was nearing 8.00pm when we loaded the car with luggage. Except for Nyoman and Katak the guys rode off into the sunset on their bikes and we stood in Gang Abdi waving. Meantime Nyoman was doing a last check throughout the villa, just in case anything has been left. He returns to give the all clear. It is time to get a little misty eyed with Agus and Wayan.
Wayan gives me the biggest bear hug and thanks me for everything. He giggles... "I like it when you stay here Jill, much laughing and party"...bless him! Wayan, being the security guard is the backbone of the villa, god knows how many nights we woke him well after midnight to get back in, only to crank up a party that would go until 4 or 5 in the morning. Agues is so quietly spoken until you get a few drinks into him, he's hilarious after a few bourbons. I will miss them until I return next year.
Normally, my last day is a terrible drag and I have said before I often feel like I am treading water. Today hadn't felt at all like that, and in my heart I was ready to go home. When I did finally open my front door it was like a relief to be back to where I know I belong. Bali is a seductress. She weaves her magic as delicately and intricately as that of a spider spinning a web. Many of us have an intangible yearning for Bali. We cant adequately express how we are drawn in, or remain under her spell. I only know when I am in Bali I feel, forever young and my desire to return never falters.
We reverse the car out of Hidden Garden Villa and drive down the gang in silence. As we drive past Indo-national I spot Kerry and yell out goodbye. I just don't have time to stop and there are no car parks available so we continue on to Jalan Sahadewa. Just up from Billy's, Katak parks the car. I quickly go into the bar for a drink because tonight the last stand will be in Legend across the road. My friends Yande, Koming and Made [The Hotline Band] are on stage and I won't miss the opportunity to see Yande play a final time. Promising the staff at Billy's I will return before leaving for the airport, Nyoman, Katak and I wander into Legends.
The band is already playing when we arrive, so we 3 sit at a table and order a drink. Koming [the lead singer] is doing his best to break me. He says, ..'So Jill, you go home tonight?" I nod. "Are you sad to be leaving".... I laugh and shake my head. .."Are you sure?'' I nod again. The band continue and are encouraging patrons to get up to sing. Nyoman, very slyly goes to walk past the band but then stops and speaks to Koming. Katak and I look at him and we both know what he has done. The following song is for me and what else would it be but Jet Plane of course. You know 25 years ago I did cry when that song was sung for me but now, and tonight in particular it is like water off a ducks back. Try as he might, goading, prompting he cant and wont get me to shed a tear.
For some comedy relief Nyoman [who is a guitarist in another band] relieves Koming of his guitar and microphone and gets up on stage to belt out a tune. I can't remember the song from laughing so hard. He is a great guitarist but forget it as far a being a singer. Katak and I are in stitches. Try as he might, Koming is unsuccessful in getting Katak to play tonight. His mood is more somber than usual. At 10.00pm Nyoman must leave as he has to be on stage in Kuta at 11.00. I go outside to say goodbye and watch him ride off into the night.
I have started to watch the clock. Tick Tock, Tick Tock, and minutes tick away... The band normally finish around 10.30pm and that is the time I need to leave for the airport, but damn it, tonight they are told to continue playing as people are up dancing and singing on stage, all having a ball. At 10.40 I catch Yande's eye and say I have to go. He tells me to wait until the song has finished, and I nod ok. The band stop and we say a fond farewell, hugs all round. Koming laughingly, is still trying to get me to cry.
As I dash across Garlic lane and run into Billy's, Anna and Al are still in there, I quickly say goodbye to all as Katak is telling me to HURRY UP!!!. It is now close to 11.00pm...ooops!!
We jump in the car and Katak is saying have you got everything, not left anything behind? I am a little concerned that he is anxious for me to leave, or maybe he is worried if I miss the flight I will crack the sh&ts big time and blame him. Haha! We have a smooth run to the airport and before you know it, we are standing beside the car with my bags. I hate this part and hug him.. .."you take care, I will call. I will miss you, a lot..." Katak mumbles ..' sms me when you land in Darwin, doesn't matter what time it is, I will see you again soon..." With that we part and I turn to race to the departure gate.
I stand in the queue thinking that flight number doesn't look right but it says Darwin. I stand there for a couple of minutes and think oh holy crap, this is the Garuda queue and I am flying Qantas...Bugga!! On autopilot I went to the side of the terminal I where I normally check-in. Thankfully, there is no queue for Qantas and in a couple of short minutes I am through and heading toward the gate, which naturally was the furthest away. The security pat down and checking of hand luggage is quick and painless and I walk to the leper's room for a last cigarette and to send a few sms. Within minutes we are being asked to board the plane and I was delighted to find I had 3 seats to stretch out on during the flight.
Sometimes I think these last 2 or 3 minutes are the worst. I think of my friends and where they are right now dotted around Kuta and Legian. I think of the empty villa and how tonight Wayan will have an undisturbed sleep. The plane is reversing and the lights are dimmed. The jet engines rumble and as we bump down the tarmac 33 days rush through my head in split seconds. The terminal a blur as our speed picks up and I touch the window of the plane and blow Bali a kiss goodbye.
The last sms I received seconds before boarding read Aku juga akan rindu kamu temanku. In the palm of my hand I held the gift Katak had given me, a beautiful sapphire pendant set in gold. I know my friends in Bali will be there when I return. Though distance separates us, these friends are never far from my thoughts and always in my heart.
"L'esclavage D'amour
It will be ours forevermore"
Words we both recall
Either from a lover, or the law
Saturday night, my steps have shown
I can walk away from all I've know
Goodnight, my friend, goodbye..."
[Cold Chisel - Saturday Night]