From Candi Dasa we organised transport to Amed through Nengah Kari who works at the Kelapa Mas (mobile number is 081 338 765011). His cousin, also called Nengah was our guide on the last trip and we weren't surprised to learn he had achieved his goal of working on a cruise ship out of Singapore. Cost was 150,000 which I thought was fair so no haggling required. We took the back road through Budakeling which was an interesting drive with Agung always looming over us and some nice views through rice paddies and forest.
Many thanks to Alanna for recommending Anda Amed and sending some photos of the sunrise. What a gem this place is. The room, restaurant and pool were all first rate and provided everything we needed to totally relax in comfort. Kim has trained all her staff really well and they are a great bunch of people who add so much to the experience. I have never stayed in a hotel with pet ducks before and Oli and Punki were a lot of laughs as they waddled around trying to make a break for the swimming pool.
We had planned to do some snorkelling on the reef across the road from the hotel but for 4 days we could hardly tear ourselves away from the pool side and didn't actually make it, despite bringing our masks and snorkels all the way from home. In the mornings we watched the sun rise over Mt Rinjani on Lombok, then walked 200m up the hill to sit at Nienes bar and watch the sun set over Agung. Magic.
We enjoyed several chats with the owner, Kim, and found out heaps about the ex-pat life in north Bali. She was the original joint-owner of the Santai and knows a lot about the area. While we were there construction started on her new house which will look over the hotel and a small ceremony was held to mark the occasion.
Despite not doing much the time flew by and after 4 nights we were heading back to Sanur. I had already arranged transport with Kari for 250,000 which seemed good value considering the round trip he did from Candi Dasa. (note: Kim accepts payment of the whole bill in AUS$, saving any conversion costs and the rate is straight out of the Jakarta Post for the previous day) Our bill was A$470 including breakfast, lunches, dinners, beers, coffees, snacks, cocktails and laundry.
We stayed at the Besakih again back in Sanur and did a day trip to Ubud to have lunch at Warung Enak (and it was definitely enak) and do some shopping. I like the mens clothes shops in the little strip down from the soccer field and particularly All Star, which sells Tommy brand polo shirts for 120,000 (the one I bought 3 years ago is still looking great). I also picked up some other shirts, cargo daks in very light soft fabric, Tommy undies and shorts (at D&G for 85,000 a pair - just put them through their first rounds of golf back home and they are very good value) Total cost was A$130 and I don't need to go inside a mall in Camberra for another year.
A few more precious days lounging on the beach in front of the Besakih then it was off on the 1:30 afternoon flight to Singapore for a night of wining and dining at the Plaza ParkRoyal before our flight home at 9:30 the following morning. With the stopover special of 50% off food at the hotel and S$20 each for free-flow beers and good Australian red and white wines we had a very fine evening. I reckon its also worth the extra flying time to avoid the overnight flight home and Singapore Airlines are so far ahead of the other airlines for reliability and comfort. Maybe JetStar will change that? I look forward to your reports so I can plan the next trip.