Quick overview
Sorry this is late! It's my first JBR and I should have posted it at the end of May... anyway, the trip was from UK for 7 nights in Bali during May (plus 2 nights in flying). Stayed 3 nights in Ubud at Alam Indah, 2 nights in Seminyak at Villa 8, and 2 nights in Candidasa at the Grand Natia. Booked flights direct with Singapore airlines over the web, Alam Indah by e-mail, Villa 8 by e-mail and fax, and Grand Natia was walk in.
Bali was still really struggling for your custom in May, so please, please go there. Many restaurants and shops in all 3 locations had no tourists in them whatsoever. We tried to spread our custom as widely as possible, trying different shops and cafés etc, and didn't bargain much. There's a touch of guidebookitis as well - some places did have a number of tourists in, all probably having read Lonely Planet (as we did).
We had a fantastic time, with glorious sunny weather except one partly rainy day. Highlights include: Alam Indah accommodation, Bike Baik cycle tour, boat to and snorkelling off White Sand beach near Candidasa, lular treatment at Verona spa in Ubud, dance performance at Ubud palace, all the great food, and all the wonderful welcoming people.
UK to Ubud
Flew Singapore airlines from Manchester on Saturday morning - booked online and reserved three seats together. Very welcoming crew and attentive service, with drinks service followed by a meal. Krisworld is a great entertainment system; listened to some music and watched two films. Changed planes in Singapore; had a few hours at Changi, definitely the best airport for any transit time. Rooftop swimming pool, sunflower garden, free internet access, free massage chairs (although couldn't get on them as some selfish people had used them as sleeping chairs), cinema, gym etc etc. Then a short hop to Bali, with a delicious breakfast of chicken noodles and another film watched (tip: pick the shortest film or you'll miss the ending), arriving around midday on Sunday. Visa on arrival was really quick - last year I queued for about an hour - this time was through in minutes. Paid by credit card. The porters were hanging around by the baggage carousel but weren't pushy, a no thank you was accepted without question. Through customs, no worries. Our driver was waiting at the gate with a card and my name (sent by Alam Indah for us for free as we were return guests). As ever, the fantastic heat hit us as we stepped outside to walk over to the car! The drive to Ubud didn't seem to take too long and before we knew it, Eka dropped us off at Alam Indah. Walking up the steps to reception felt so calming, which was enhanced by the welcome from Dewa and the fruit juice as we collapsed into the chairs. Then to our rooms - first upstairs to the Coconut room, which had a huge daybed on its balcony and a lovely view of the garden, for D. Then down the path to the last building before the valley and upstairs to the Hibiscus room, with an absolutely gorgeous view on two sides of the lush river valley, rice terraces and forest. The wooden carved bed was draped with a mozzie net - very romantic for me and P. Both rooms were fan-cooled rather than air-con, but we had no problems with that.
First stop was the pool, to cool off and chill out, after which we walked down past the Monkey Forest into Ubud. Bought tickets for the palace the following night for the Legong dance off an elderly man in the street (this is the same price you pay at the tourist office, so you might as well buy from the street vendor and help his sales). Popped into Verona spa to look at the rooms and book some treatments for the next day. Dinner was at Café Wayan, with the sound of running water almost lulling us to sleep, as we were so tired from the flight! Both P and D enjoyed their food, but I thought mine was average. The garden chill-out ambience in Café Wayan is the best, so I would definitely go back. We left about 8pm for an early night - nearly fell asleep on my daybed on the balcony, listening to the wonderful sounds of the crickets and frogs, as well as some distant chanting and gamelon music from the people down in the forest, before I sank into the comfortable pillows and had the best full night's sleep in months.
Monday was P's birthday. We had breakfast on our balcony, and then used the free car service from Alam Indah to take us to our spa appointment at Verona (down an alley off Monkey Forest Road, almost opposite Café Wayan). D had a single room, P and I had a double room. Both rooms were open to the rice field behind the spa, with blinds hanging down and plants for privacy, but with enough gaps for a nice view. Had the Javenese Lulur, nearly 2 hours of pampering for just 90,000 (about £6). First, a great full body massage, followed by the rice bran/sandlewood scrub, then cooling yoghurt mask, then shower off and relax with in the flower-filled aromatherapy bath, sipping ginger tea and munching fresh fruit. A great way to start any day, but especially a birthday! I would highly recommend the Verona Spa.
Did a bit of shopping, then up to Café Lotus for lunch. There were actually a fair few other tourists in here. The view of the lotus ponds and temple is very serene. Food nicely presented, my starter was greasy, but D's mixed appetiser starter and my duck pasta main were good. After lunch, walked through the Monkey Forest. We knew to be wary of the monkeys and yet P still got a big monkey jumping up to his thighs to try and grab his water bottle! Didn't go into the temples but met a guy by the Temple of the Dead, Nyoman, who explained a little about it and then showed us some of his paintings. Unfortunately they were very small - postcard size - so I didn't want any, but with hindsight wished I'd bought one, they were only 20,000 after all, to give him a break. It's difficult - I wanted to give custom to everyone, but sometimes you just want to chill out and not be bothered by the sellers. As we left the forest, there were several women all wanting us to buy their carved boxes and flutes. Again, I wish we'd stopped and made a purchase, but at the time it just felt like hassle.
Back at Alam Indah, had the (free) afternoon tea and cake on our balcony, before another swim and relax at the pool. We saw a flyer in the Alam Indah office for a bike tour which Dewa offered to call and arrange for us. Then out to Ubud Palace for the dance. We knew to arrive early for good seats, although it wasn't overly busy anyway. Bought some beers from the sellers and enjoyed the show - great dancers and orchestra. The gamelon music really sends me into a trance! Definitely an Ubud must-do. Then onto Batan Waru for food, which I and D found really tasty, but P didn't think much of his duck. There were a number of people in so perhaps they're not struggling for custom as much as some other places. Back at Alam Indah, the wonderful sounds of nature lulled us to sleep once more... to be continued...