Hubby and I spent 6 wonderful days in Bali without children from 10-16 June. Flew AA out of Melbourne Sat 10 June. All of us sitting at the gate lounge were getting worried as we watched a cloud of fog descend on the airport just before boarding. We were late getting away, but landed on time about 12.30pm into Denpasar. Paid our VOA quickly, bit of a wait then to get through customs, but not too bad. (a tip - go for one of the middle rows, where you can reach the stands with the brochures on, I got lots of good maps/info there, and reading certainly made the wait go faster!)
We had been to Bali last July for 3 weeks with the 3 kids, and everyone (except me) got a variety of ear infections and tummy bugs. So we were keen for just the 2 of us to return (figured that was at least 3 less people to get sick). So thanks to 2 wonderful sets of grandparents, we got to go alone (armed with their long ‘wish lists'). Have to say, the advice on the forum from Tuberose & co re Inner Health tablets washed down with a chaser of the pure raspberry juice worked a treat for us this time. We were both a picture of health the whole time, so I'd definitely recommend that. (particularly as my hubby has a sensitive stomach at the best of times, and he certainly ate anything and everything while we were in Bali with no problems).
We spent our first night at Secret Garden Inn, Poppies 1 (another forum recommendation). Was a great place, wonderful location and room with all we needed for only 200,000rph. Would definitely stay here again. We met up with hubby's English cousin and new bride (on their honeymoon) for dinner, then the boys watched England defeat Paraguay in the world cup, while the girls went shopping.
Spent next 2 nights in Ubud at Tegal Sari (yes, what can I say, almost everything we did was based on forum recommendations!) This place is just superb, we stayed in a deluxe wooden room (22), just gorgeous views over the rice paddies and the most obliging staff. We were also impressed with the cost of extras here - a 1 hour massage was only 75,000rph (other hotel massages are way more than this), even laundry charges were comparable with what you could get on the street. For such a lovely place, they certainly didn't overcharge for their extras.
It was from here that we booked one of the highlights of our trip - a Bike Baik tour with Wayan. Had also read about this beforehand, and emailed Wayan for details. Cost was 350,000rph/each. Picked up from hotel, taken to restaurant overlooking lake/volcano for breakfast, then to coffee/chocolate plantation where we could taste both, then started our ride. It was 26K, but almost all downhill (only a couple of hills near the end), most of the trip you just applied the brakes and enjoyed the view. I am not at all an energetic person, and had no problem with the ride. You're mostly on tiny back roads, through rice paddies. Wayan is a wonderful guide, encourages all to stop as often as they'd like, provides water and bananas on the way. He's happy to talk as much or as little as you'd like. We really enjoyed his commentary on everything from rice growing to religion/village life and Bali tourism. The tour finishes at Wayan's village just out of Ubud, where we had the most fantastic feast all cooked by his wonderful wife. Without a doubt, it was the best meal we've had in Bali, just divine food and all freshly prepared that morning. You can also do cooking lessons with Wayan's wife in the morning, then join the bikers when they arrive and help eat it.
That night hubby watched Japan v Australia in the world cup at Tegal Sari. He watched with another couple of Aussies and about 10 Japanese. The Japanese were great sports, they wanted to play rock/paper/scissors with my hubby to predict the result. They played twice, he won both times so all through the match (when they were 1-0 up most of the time), they kept saying ‘we will not win because Aussie won rock/paper/scissors'. Hubby was not so confident, but sure enough, in the last 6 minutes Australia went beserk and won 3-1.......so he now takes all the credit for that score! The world cup games were a real bonus for my hubby, it was being shown everywhere, and it made it such a great experience to be able to watch with all nationalities.
Our last 3 nights were in Sanur at the Griya Santrian. Lovely hotel, great location but staff nowhere near as friendly as Tegal Sari, and they certainly charged way more for their extras (massages, laundry etc), so needless to say we got all the extras elsewhere. It was at Sanur we had one of our other real highlights when we got to watch a cremation ceremony procession for a member of the royal family. The procession just had to be seen to be believed, fire truck spraying water, many intricate and colourful floats and hundreds and hundreds of people taking part.
Found a wonderful driver, Made Suheta (recommended by forumite Lisa). His rates are reasonable, and he's so accommodating. I've had other drivers who don't like changes in itinerary etc, but he was very relaxed and happy to stop wherever or divert if I remembered somewhere else I'd like to go. He really made our travels more relaxed and enjoyable. His number is 081 239 82468.
Did lots of shopping, the usual heaps of dvds, necklaces and anything else. Best markets would definitely be Sukawati (between Ubud/Sanur), super cheap compared to anywhere else we went. Boy I hate that 20kg luggage limit. Also enjoyed Candi Kuning markets - and of course checked out Crackers toilets...and I have to agree, the vanities are just gorgeous.
On our last night we went to Jimbaran Bay for dinner before checking into airport. We had a nice time, but even with the 20% discount it was 1M rph.....by far and away the most expensive meal we'd had and I don't think worth it the money.
We were 10kg over (combined) with our bags, but no mention made on checkin. AA left 45 mins late, but arrived on time into Melbourne. All in all a wonderful time, much quieter than last July of course, apparently the Europeans weren't travelling because of the World Cup. I've been back a whole 2 weeks, and am constantly thinking how soon we can manage to get back!