Have been back for 2 weeks - spent two weeks in Bali (17-30th Jan 06). This is about trip number 7 or 8, and was a very different experience to those of the past.
It was incredibly quiet over there. Restaurants are deserted, only a few doing well - shopping malls and markets are very quiet. Hence fairly consistent harassment to buy, take a taxi/transport etc. I know it has always been the same, but in the past there have always been plenty of tourists wandering around, and if you say no to something, the seller would just move onto the next person - now there is no next person so the sales pitch is getting pretty desperate.
I do not mean to sound callous and before everyone gets on here to give me an ear bashing, these are purely my thoughts and reactions to the trip. We decided to go back to Bali again as we figured if we had money to spend on a holiday and shopping, we would rather it went to the Balinese who are really suffering from the decline in tourism. However, by the end of the trip we were very exhausted by the continual stories of how hard things are, and the desperate pleading to buy ‘just one thing' etc..... We are not wealthy and we were on a tight budget this time, which just ended up leaving me feeling dejected and a little depressed over not being able to help people. I guess it is easy to ignore all of this and just get on with haggling for what you do want and being happy to get it at a great price, but if you have been before and you do have any empathy towards the people, you may find it a bit hard.
Now for the info.
ACCOMMODATION
Stayed at the Bali Niksoma, Legian for the entire trip (we have travelled around the island previously and decided to just stay in the one place this time).
Niksoma was wonderful - we had a Deluxe room the first four days as the standard room we had booked was not available. Similar type of rooms although the standard rooms are a little older and the furniture is slightly better in the Deluxe room. Both had tea and coffee, DVD, TV, Fridge, good bathrooms.
Before leaving we checked out the range of accommodation. Junior suites have wonderful bathrooms - 2 of everything and huge - not sure how many of these there are - they are single storey scattered amongst the gardens. Next ones up are the Suites which were stunning. Beautiful lounge rooms and bedroom - CD player, big screen TV in the lounge - normal TV in the bedroom, DVD player - there are only 4 suites - blocks of two with one on ground level and one above. The ones above have balconies and beautiful views of the sea. I would definitely suggest upgrading to these if you can, especially if you are staying for awhile.
Niksoma is between the Padma and the Jayakata right on the beach front (near Malasti). Listed as a ‘boutique hotel' as it is quite small compared to the others. Beautiful swimming pools - ate in the restaurant on the first night, would not recommend it after this experience. This was the only thing that let the Niksoma down and as we did not try it again, this may have just been a bad night!
Breakfasts were included and were very good - decided to have a change one morning and went to the Moka Café in Seminyak on a recommendation - found it very ordinary - went back to Niksoma breakfasts after this.
The staff were wonderful and I cannot speak highly enough of all that we came in contact with. On our arrival, two staff members showed us to our rooms and carried our luggage - I offered a tip which was met with a dazzling smile and 'No madam, this is not necessary'. The rooms were very clean and all stocks of tea, coffee, mini-bar, replenished each day. Staff could not do enough to assist in any way possible.
Would definitely stay there again - in a suite!!!
SHOPPING
Shopped everywhere, found prices pretty similar to other trips. Took time this trip to seek out some things that were a bit different - eg better quality shoes and sandals, silver ornaments and more upmarket clothes (things I will actually wear back here!!!). Found quite a few shoe wholesalers up around the Niksoma, but these are not cheaper if you only want to buy a few pairs, in fact in many instances were much dearer than the other smaller markets and shops.
Found an excellent little shoe shop not far from Niksoma. It is called the Three Brothers and is in the same street as the Flying Piano Restaurant (further along on opposite side. They sell all sandals for 25,000 - $3-4 did not even have to bargain - they told me this as I walked in. Small shop but reasonable variety, also have bags and jewellery - purchased a lot from here. Also Rani's have an excellent selection on Jalan 66 or 666.
PRICES IN GENERAL
Exchange rate 7,000 for the Australian $.
Generally found food and taxis a little more expensive than previously, most other goods, clothing, watches, sunglasses etc pretty much the same as other trips.
RESTAURANTS
Best new restaurant we found this trip was the Flying Piano - Jl Werkudara, Legian Kaja. This is in a small side street that runs off the road that accesses the above named hotels - it runs off almost parallel to the back of the Jayakata and goes through to Legian Rd. Food was sensational - specialty one night was Salmon in Cream/Dill sauce (not that fond of Salmon but felt like something different) - it was delicious. Seafood hot and spicy soup from the Thai menu is unbeatable. They have Indonesian, Swiss, German and Thai menus and numerous other options also - one of the largest selections I had seen. Three piece band plays music, but if you are lucky, when they take a break, Pedro the owner plays the grand piano - what can I say about Pedro? He is unique, unusual, and truly gifted as a pianist - an amazing experience. LOVE THIS PLACE.
This is also a great little street to shop in, along with Jalan 66 which runs parallel just above this.
Also ate at the Gateway to India in Seminyak (opposite the Sante Fe) this was also excellent. Ate at the Kamala Pantai restaurant which is just up from the Niksoma - this was also on a recommendation, but found it reasonably average. There are a number of restaurants just up the beach from the Niksoma, all looked OK.
Ate at Indo International - which still has not moved from Garlic Lane, but they will be moving soon - to the Legian Rd end of Padma Street I think!. Also ate at Dolphin Restaurant just along from Indo. Both good and very cheap.
WEATHER
I can say I am not one of the people who survive well in humidity. We usually go to Bali between July and September. January was a real shock to the system. The rain bucketed down most nights and early mornings - not much through the days, but the humidity was overwhelming. Boyfriend coped with it better than I did, but he also found it hard going. Personally I would not go again at this time of year if I had a choice. The two days before we left, the weather improved to just hot with clear blue skies and the humidity dropped considerably.
SCAM
I loved this one. We were buying chips, drinks etc from the Circle K just at the back of the Niksoma. Day 2 I had a sneaking suspicion we had been overcharged. Most of this Mini Marts offer a receipt with your change, this one did not. I asked for the receipt, and the attendant looked a bit crestfallen. He ripped the receipt off and then proceeded to tear the top part of it off before handing it to me. I could see our things on the bottom, but could just see that there were other items above these where he had try to tear them off the receipt.
I told him we had been overcharged and asked him to check the receipt against the items in our bag - he did not bother doing this - he simply took the money he had overcharged me out of the till and handed it to me without saying anything.
What they are doing is if someone comes in ahead of you, they charge them for the items and ring them up but do not total the receipt. That person pays for them. You come along and they start ringing up the things you have brought along with the other things already on the receipt. You pay for these additional items again. These things have now been paid for twice so they just take the extra money out of the till when you leave.
They did it to us twice, and I complained twice - after that each time we went in the talked amongst themselves (generally 2-4 young staff in shop), I would hear the word receipt mentioned - they would then charge us correctly and give us the right receipt.
BEWARE of these - add up what you are buying before you get to the register - get the receipt and check it.
We warned a young Aussie couple we met in there, and when we saw them later at the hotel, they said they tried to pull the same thing on them for quite a bit of money.
I would gladly give them the couple of dollars if they needed it, but I object to stealing it from us!!!
FLIGHT
Garuda direct out of Adelaide - excellent flight going over.
Came back via Melb to Adelaide - terrible flight.
Late loading the flight. Had issued with seat allocations (we asked for the exit row as it has more leg room) - but as people got on the flight, attendants were telling people to sit anywhere they wanted! I have no idea why they did this as they boarded the plane by row numbers (with boarding passes for the back rows being called to board first, then as people got inside the plane they were told to sit anywhere they wanted). Hence the last people to board who had seat allocations towards the front of the plane got on to find other people sitting in their seats and refusing to move. This ended up with families and others travelling together, being split up on the plane and just having to grab any available seat. It was a total fiasco and there were lots of disgruntled passengers. Plane left very late because of this - ended up being 2 hours late into Adelaide (there was another delay in Melbourne when a transit passenger did not reboard the plane).
Final note, security is a personal choice to be made by you - no point asking other forumites if it is safe as no-one can guarantee this.
If you go, enjoy.