J B R - UBUD 30th July - 3rd August
Saturday 30th July - up early and off to Tullamarine. Checked in early (4th in line) . AD 063 left on time and after a perfect flight with Air Paradise we had an equally perfect landing at Ngurah Rai. During the flight we met up with Muske (Mara) and her travelling companion. At the airport we used the porters and contrary to popular belief, find them both courteous and efficient. We gave them Rp20.000 for their efforts (had 7 pieces of luggage) which was well received.
After minimal delay (luggage last off the carousel) we found ourselves in the hands of our guide, the driver and their early 60s leather seated Merc. We were soon on the road, bound for Tegal Sari, Ubud
While we waited for our room to be prepared, we were taken on a tour of the facilities including the 3 new buildings. It looked like and turned out to be a great hotel and we were to thoroughly enjoy our 4 days at Tegal Sari . We were allocated room 12 with 'Sawah' views both in front and behind - magnificent!!!
We were to meet some Melbourne friends that night and had suggested we try Lotus Lane Rest in JL Monkey Forest which was about halfway between our respective hotels. I stressed the address but guess what .... Yes, they turned up at Lotus Pond in Jl Raya Ubud. While we thoroughly enjoyed our meal they were less than pleased with theirs at the other place. Incidentally, if you take a review about one of their establishments from Bali Eats with you, a 15% discount will be applied. (Ends late Oct). Having eaten at various 'Lotus' establishments in Bali Benny and I are happy to recommend them to all forumites. We have never been disappointed.
Breakfast is delivered to your room and we ate it on the balcony watching the arrival of the local village ladies (Gotong royong) who were about to commence a day of harvesting and threshing. First tho, it was 'makan Pagi, seated in a circle discussing the local gossip. At 8.30 work began and it was fascinating to watch. 2 cutting, 2 threshing. While they seemed to work a somewhat slow pace, by 9.00 half of the section was completed. The farmer (Petani) supervised but when sufficient threshed stalks were on the ground he set it on fire and a plume of smoke wafted across the area. Luckily the wind took it away from the hotel. At the same time the 'Duck man' herded his flock from field to field and also collected a bag of eggs from them (daily). All round there were similar scenarios and by the end of the day a very large area had been processed. By the end of the 4 days almost the whole area was finished.
Off to look around the area and very soon came across 'Panorama' hotel where Nancy stays. We can understand why, it looks really nice. Being a tad thirsty we had a coffee in the open restaurant overlooking the rice fields. Benny had the best expresso coffee there. As we drank who should walk by but our last nights intended dinner companions. Quite a coincidence as they were staying about 2 km from Tegal Sari. More arrangements were made and Murnis Warung became the place for this evenings meal.
Off to JL Hanoman for a burst of shopping and during the late morning came across L'arbre a plumes at no 49. At first it looked like a bookshop which indeed it was, however, in addition it was also a restaurant. Deciding that the time was right for a read and a feed we made our way inside. Only small and seating possibly a max of 20 -25 people, we found it to be an absolute gem. The cuisine is French Mediterranean with Indo food as an alternative, the menu not large but difficult to choose from as all items made our mouth water. Benny settled for an antipasto type dish, scrumptious while I had salad Nicoise. While we waited for our choices to arrive we browsed the bookshelves, from which you are able to buy or just read while earing. Nice cold Bintangs to wash it down, all at a very reasonable price which completed what was very pleasant experience. Highly recommended it is a 5 star place.
Murnis Warung that night was also excellent and the 5 of us thoroughly enjoyed the experience there. Prior to that we had met our friends at Tjampuhan and enjoyed an excellent South African Riesling. It was only a short walk from their hotel which helped work up our appetites. Murnis Warung is situated at the market end of the bridge on Jl Raya Ubud and it just cascades down through 3 levels overlooking the river bank. We were on the lower level, were attended to by lovely staff and every meal they brought out was superb. It was another great night out in Bali and we rated it with another 5 stars.
More breaky on the verandah together with more harvest watching. Gunung Agung was visible in all it's glory this am and it presented a terrific photo opportunity. Apart from a shopping trip which included some creams & ginger tea from Jalatik today was a bit lazy except that I worked out at the open air gym while Benny swam in the quaint pool. After that I indulged in my first massage of the trip - wonderful!!
In the morning we had looked for and found Bali Buddha where we had 'elevenses'. The café' latte' was served in a pint mug, it was enormous and I could barely drink it all. Our snacks were unique, Blue Vein Cheese
& veggies on Rye bread and Eggplant with sundried tomato, also on Rye.
That evening we met Charles & Gael Bolland (Bro-ken) ( BTF) and two of their friends at Batan Waru in Jl Dewi Sita. We had a really nice night with them but didn't think the food was up to the usual high standard. Nonetheless it was good to dine with company and to have enjoyed the conversation.
Next morning and the harvest had gathered pace and the ladies were now working the fields at the back of our room. During our watching brief we couldn't but notice the really heavy load the women carried on their head each night as they transported the rice away while the men seemed totally immune to the fact.
We decided to go for a long walk and take in Nyuh Kuning and hope to look at the birthing clinic and meet Ibu Robin. Not knowing how far away it was and having only an idea of it's location we set off down Jl Hanoman in the direction of Denpasar. An old guy, Anom was standing outside one of the numerous 'Artists Studio' and as we approached he basically ushered us inside and showed us around. 'It is my sons studio', he said adding 'he is the artist'. In truth the paintings were very good and I could see Benny's mind ticking over. Next he introduced us to 'Bunga' (Flower) his 6 y o granddaughter (Cucu). She was also painting and her work was very good. 'Bunga' was beautiful child and we thought we'd return later and select a painting. Sadly we didn't so it's on our list for next year.
On we went and shortly turned left into the road to Nyuh Kuning, past Bali Spirit
Hotel and into the village proper, where the clinic is located. Upon asking for directions we were told to turn left at the next intersection and 'it is on the left'. We found it without any trouble and very soon were shown around the clinic. It is basic but adequate and we could see why Ibu Robin in her 'wish list' said money was one of the most needed commodities. Hoping against hope we asked if Robin was available to talk to. One of her staff quickly phoned her house and we were invited to meet her.
Robins 'Rumah' is nearer the Monkey Forest anout 200 yards away. We were escorted right inside to where Robin was sitting in the kitchen. The words serene, loving, caring placid and patient came to mind as she and Benny sat chatting. I just listened in awe as Robin spoke about her work, her family, her patients and the problems she faced in running this facility. One of the current problems regarded a shipment of much needed vitamins which remained in customs. She was unable to get a release because customs said she would sell them commercially - as if for goodness sake they are needed at the clinic for her girls.
Her staff served us with a cup of iced tea while she told us more of the problems of the Balinese in birthing. Robin is a lovely, dedicated person, totally devoted to the young mothers of Ubud and surrounding areas. We had spent over half an hour with Robin when a phone call alerted her to an imminent breech birth. 'I have to go' she said, quickly rose and walked with us to the exit, stopping once to introduce a grandchild and then she was gone. It was a magic time for us and indeed the highlight of the Ubud days.
From here the road took us to the Monkey Forest but before entering we stopped for lunch Kafe Copper, an establishment whose owner came from Belgium. Around the wall were displays of Belgium beer bottle top or labels. Most of the décor was in copper as the name suggests. The beer was cold, the food excellent and we rested before making the final 3 km back to Tegal Sari. I went to Jelatik for a massage RP80,000 while Benny rested.
That night, our last in Ubud, we went to 'Warung Enak' which is located 50 yards from Tegal Sari. This place is a sister restaurant to 'Lemak' in Jl Monkey Forest and it was every bit as good as 'Lemak'. Asih and Ary, our two waiters looked after us as tho we were their parents. The food was on the lines of a La Lucciola or Ma Joly and was excellent. It was a fitting place to have our last maun meal in Ubud. Incidently, the toilets are sensational, clean, modern and classy.
We had arranged for a driver to pick us up next day at 3.00pm however, he did a 'no show' first time for us but Tegal Sari were able to step into the breech for RP10.000 more than the guy with the 'no show' We had lunched at Casa Luna and while I enjoyed my sate Benny ‘s Nasi was not at all appetising. The saving grace was the 'dingin sekali' Bintang.
This was our first stay at Tegal Sari and we have to say it won't be the last. We really enjoyed it there aided by fabulous staff, great views and one of the nicest rooms we have ever had in Bali.
We arrived finally at Bali Hai in the late afternoon and received the usual very warm welcome., but more of that later.
Clive M