As this was our first trip to Bali we tried to plan our day trips so that we could see as much of (the real) Bali as possible without getting caught in too many tourist traps. We eliminated doing a day trip to Ubud as most people we'd spoken to said it's best to stay a few days there to get the best of it, we decided that we would do just that on our next trip to Bali.
The first day trip was a road trip up the centre of the island. We booked a driver and a guide through the hotel, got the special Rp price, but more expensive than hiring one of the drivers that operate directly opposite the Padma gate. So off we went with our guide Mangde and driver Nyoman heading first towards Mengwi to see the temple, Taman Ayun. Well worth a visit as Mangde, unfortunately the moat was drained for maintenance. Back on the road we were off to Bedugul where we stopped at the fruit markets. Bit of a tourist trap, but couldn't resist buying fake Ray Bans with glass lenses for 30,000Rp. Barb bought one of those striped sandalwood handbags for 27,000Rp. Oh, and we did pick up some fruit for the day as well. Next stop the temple on Lake Bratan; Pura Ulun Danu, it was a beautiful location and gardens. They have large pythons and bats there for the tourists to get their photo taken with. Next stop was to feed the monkeys, then on to Git Git.
On the walk to Git Git, we had the traders all laughing. Mangde and we had chuba chubs in our mouths and everyone was asking him what he had, very funny -you had to be there I guess. One little boy, all of 3yrs, followed us all for about 200m. He had strings on beads over his arm that he was selling. For 200m we had this sad quiet little voice saying 'just 1000Rps'. He was one of a number and although Mangde shooed them away, this little guy persisted -up and down the steps. Finally Barb decided enough was enough and said 'I'll buy 3 for 5000Rp'. Yeap you guessed it, the one she picked was 5,000Rp. The little boy, still in character, said a very sad and painful, 'thankyou'. We cracked up, Mangde told him he should smile now and he started to laugh as well. Git Git waterfall reached, photo taken and we made our way back to the van. Not without Barb picking up a sarong for 10,000Rp on the way.
Next stop Lovina via Singaraja for lunch. We had lunch at a small place on the beach, food was average. It was good to relax for an hour and have a few drinks while we watched a ceremony unfold in front of us. The occasion was taking the ashes, following a cremation, out to the sea. Next stop hot springs and back to Legian via Pupuan, past Lake Tamlingan and Buyan. After 11 hours we were glad to get back to the hotel, but it was a wonderful day out, made all the more fun by Mangde and Nyoman. One moment that helps understand the gentle nature of our guides; when we were driving in the hills, we had the air conditioning off and windows down and a wasp flew into the front of the van. Mangde pinned it down with some paper and was trying to get it out of the window, all the while Nyoman was trying to keep one eye on where the wasp was and drive at the same time. If you've been over these hills and experienced the winding road you can imagine the situation. Finally Mangde apologised to the wasp for having to take its life and dispatched it on the dash board. These guys were great; they stopped wherever we wanted to take a photo and suggested plenty of top spots of their own.
On the second day we choose to get out on the water. Rather than Bounty or Bali Hai cruises we went instead for Island Explorer option and took the 'relax cruise' on a 60ft yacht. Booked through the hotel again and got a discount, paid $50US each. Got picked up from the hotel to Benoa harbour and off we went. Motor sailed over as we were fighting the current, took about 2.5 hours. Plenty of time to get to know those on board, takes about 12 passengers + 3 crew. Trawled a couple of fishing lines on the way but no luck there. Once we arrived at Lembongan Island you get to do all the usual things, sea canoe, beach, resort, banana rides, and snorkelling. We mainly snorkelled as the water was clear and tide out, used bread to bring the fish in -it was great. Sailed back, 2-3m swell, no motor, cold Bintangs...fantastic. For those that really do like to be on the water and have a nice relaxing day, I can thoroughly recommend this trip, good lunch as well!
Third day trip was up to Candi Dasa via Celuk, were we bought jewellery for the daughter and mother in law at special morning prices. Also stopped in at an art gallery. From Candi we went north then west into the hills to Bebandem and proceeded on a three hour walk through the country side, visiting some villages ending up back at Tenganan. Following the advice on the forum I took a back pack fill of Chub-a-chubs and little bottles of bubble mixture. We handed these out to the kids we met along the way and it was great to see their smiles and hear them laughing when they learnt how to blow the bubbles. In one of the little villages after entertaining the local kids, we were invited into a family compound for some rice wine and met the whole family. The wine tasted like ginger beer on steroids to me, was very nice. It was one of a number of highlights of our trip. Lunch at about 2.30pm in Candi Dasa before heading back to the hotel.
Our last couple of days were spent clothes shopping for the teenagers back home and for ourselves. My wife spent the best part of a day shopping at Animale's factory outlet (least it felt like that). They do have table and chairs in the shop for the blokes to read the newspaper and sports magazines. Filling in time I found the Bali Export Centre across the road and picked up a number of bits and pieces to take home.
Prices were pretty much as described on the forum, although you need to bargain hard to get the Billabong, Volcom type T's down to 30,000Rp. Best I did was 32, worst 45, most around 35. Bintang T's much cheaper and most you can see through they're that thin. If you're looking for sunnies or watches it's easier to get a better price from the guys on the beach, especially in the morning. Even at the fashion stores the prices are cheap compared to home. I bought a couple of Volcom T's from the Volcom shop in Kuta for 165,000 each, about half what you pay at home. We ended up buying another suitcase to take all the stuff home, came with 18Kg went home with 50Kg between the two of us.
Bargaining; now the traders on Bali are good, I'll offer some advice from what I learnt. First off, there's no wrong price, they won't sell unless they're happy and you won't part with your money unless you are. It's not a competition. Take your time, 30secs or even a minutes silence is part of the game. Make it fun, the nicer you are the better the price. Never offer the first price, it's the first test. Always try to get your last price agreed (start second end last). I found myself often bargaining hard to get my last price agreed and when it was, ended up paying them their last price anyway. Always ended with lots of smiles and handshakes...and marked the start of some good conversation. Sometimes, I just settled for a high price because I could afford the small change involved and you can see how difficult it is for them. Never forget how little is at stake. If other items are added to the negotiation take your time, it's an opportunity to get a good price on the first item before negotiating the others. Don't try to but 6 T's for your first buy, 6 times a better or worse deal. More likely the latter unless you've got some experience under your belt. Have a bargaining purse or wallet, they look to see how much money you have -try going out with only 30,000 in it for your first T shirt buy. You get to use 'but I only have 30,000Rp left'.
Last couple of evenings we enjoyed the company at S&S's, so to those that were there -thanks. Special thanks to the young lady from Perth who shall remain nameless, she cracked us all up. We were chatting about holidays in the South Island, NZ when she commented on how pretty our sheep were. We Kiwi lads just nodded knowingly, now there's a smart woman.
Well that's about it, 10 nights in Bali. Definite highlights were; the Padma, the people-the people-the people, the food, the kites, the smells, the squirrels and geckos, the weather. Nothing bad to report.
Last piece of advice for first timers, after your first two days you'll wonder what you were worried about.