Do you ever get one of those moments when fond memories from the past invade your reverie and immerse you in a state of delightful melancholy? We have 28 plus photo albums that each hold about 200 photos and that is not including the countless pics that we have on disc. They are what is commonly called 'the family albums' and are just that, a continuing snapshot of our family from before we were married in 1965 through to the birth and growing up of our four children (3 girls and 1 boy). Pat and I had met when we were both just thirteen and I was attending Perth Boys High School in James Street in Perth and Pat next door in Girdlestone Girls High School and we have been as close as one ever since. For those that cant remember or are too young, that was a time when schooling between primary school and university was not co-educational, at least not in Western Australia anyway. Well, in about 1980 I had driven down to Perth (370 klms) with my eldest daughter Lynda from where we lived in Southern Cross. We had bought a hotel in Southern Cross in 1970 after moving from our first hotel in Ballidu (our kids grew up in country hotels until they themselves married and made their own way in life). Anyway, as we were driving past, what was then John Curtain Travel in Subiaco, I asked Lynda how she and her mother would like to go to Bali for a holiday. It wont take much imagination to guess the reaction from a 14 year old girl at the prospect of having an overseas holiday so we drove in and I booked their holiday. We told a very surprised Pat she was going to Bali after we drove home to Southern Cross that night. Seven days at the Bali Hyatt in Sanur but at what cost I cant for the life of me remember, but it wasn't much at all. Bali at that time was not high on the list of preferred holiday destinations and there simply wasn't as many choices for hotels as there is now and also we were really uneducated and naïve about Bali at that time. Travel agents can be very influential when it comes to selling a destination. The lass that we dealt with although very efficient and thorough did not have a feel for Bali and made the comment when I suggested a two-week stay that 'seven days in Bali is more than enough' and that Sanur would be more suitable for them. Wrong, wrong, wrong, for the first thing that both Lynda and Pat said on their return was that they wished that they had stayed at least another week and although they were thrilled with Sanur they loved to visit Kuta to shop so either Sanur or Kuta would have suited them both. They had come home infected with the deadly and incurable Bali Virus and it still recurs at regular intervals today even after 25 years. Back to the photo albums! As I was moving them from one location to another and flipping through them as one is want to do at such times, a wrapped package of paperwork fell out of one of them. We opened it up and as we slowly went through the pages we realised that Pat and I had entered a Tardis and we were swept back in time twenty years to a most significant and wonderful memory filled 1985. What a treasure trove had lay hidden in the back of that photo album, even a daily diary in one of the kids own handwriting! After Pat and Lynda's trip to Bali they convinced me that I would love the place and that I should go there too, so I went with Pat a couple of times between 1980 and 1985 and like them, strange but true, I had contracted the same virus that seemed to become more virulent with each trip. On these trips Pat and I had made friends with one of the staff at what was then The White Sands Tavern (now the Agung) in Jalan Danau Tamlingan between Jalan Duyung and Jalan Kesumasari. His name was and is Made Suadnyana (George as he is known to all and sundry). We also met his very beautiful and very pregnant wife, Putu. This vision of loveliness and Pat had an instant liking for one another and although there was a large language barrier at that time they managed to communicate quite well with the help of Georges, at times, extremely humorous translations. We had never been on a holiday as a complete family at any time before and although Pat would always take the kids to Perth to visit their grandparents every school holiday some one had to stay home and run the pub, so it was that, sadly, it was always for our children a one parent holiday. 1985 was definitely going to be different. We were going on a true family holiday for two weeks in Bali. We booked through John Curtain Travel in Subiaco, flying Qantas flight QF 75 departing Perth at 11.15am on Sunday September 22nd and arriving Denpasar at 1.45pm Bali time (there was a 1 hour time difference between Perth and Denpasar then) and staying at the Hyatt in Sanur for a cost of $A703 per person including transfers and a full breakfast plus a couple of tours. Saturday the 21st saw a temporary manager/licensee installed in the pub, arrangements for the care of the kids pets including a couple of young kangaroos, a large German Shepherd, a bird aviary, pet lamb, pet pig, pet goat and some other species that country kids are lucky enough to be able to collect and look after, in place. The Ford Spectrum was loaded with our luggage and an excited and very happy us were driving to Perth. To my everlasting shame I had forgotten just how really, really good and proud that I felt on the Sunday at the airport as I watched the excitement in the eyes of my children and my wife as we waited those two long hours to board the 747 that was to whisk us over the ocean to the Island of the Gods. So close but in truth a world away! For the first time we were all together as a complete family on holiday, and believe me being a parent had never felt better or more special to me than it did that particular day. The long hidden package had rekindled that feeling and it swept over Pat and I with the softness of a Bali sunset. In 1985 Lynda was now 19, Nicole was 18, Kaye was 16 going on 17 going on 50 and Scott was 13 while I was, suffice it to say, wearing a much younger mans clothes than I do today and Pat was just 6 months younger than I. We arrived in Bali and deplaned onto the tarmac and walked to the terminal as one did back then. Southern Cross gets very hot during summer so the heat did not affect us. However we felt the humidity a bit but happily drank in the odour of a mixture of the tropics and burnt Jet A1 fuel that is Ngurah Rai airport as it cries 'welcome to Bali'. In those days there was no air-conditioning in the arrivals hall and worse there was no loo until you had passed through immigration and into the customs hall. So if you had had a few beers on the plane, and who didn't, plus if it was hot and humid it was quite an ordeal. Still it was no different from when you returned to Perth. Luggage collected, we passed through customs without a hitch and out onto the concourse to search through a sea of faces and signs in an effort to locate our transport. Within a short space of time we were on the bus, along with several others, and bound for the Hyatt. Three of my kids had not been to Bali before and to watch the expressions on their faces as they tried to take in everything they saw was quite fascinating and touching. I now experience that same thrill watching the faces of my grandchildren as they do the same. There was no Bali Travel Forum in those days where one could get a balanced view of what to expect, where to shop, eat etc. as the internet had not been invented, so us, like most others at the time were a little wary and prone to believe the crap that was bantered around about all sorts of rubbish. The Hyatt had a money changer and we changed $100 Australian. there at the rate of 765 rupes to the dollar giving us 76500rp for our $100 (a receipt was in the parcel) . The rate at the shop on the corner of Jalan Danau Tamlingan and Jalan Duyung varied from 1000rp to the A$ for travellers cheques and 1100rp to $A for cash. At first glance it seems a very poor rate of exchange but when we went through a lot of other receipts it works out to be relative to the exchange and prices today in 2005 at an average rate of 7500rp to the A$. A small Bintang at the White Sands Tavern and in most other places was 900rp and at an exchange rate of 1000rp to the A$ was about 90% of the dollar. When we were in Bali in April of this year a small Bintang was about 6800rp. At an average exchange rate of 7500rp to the A$ it is still only about 90% of the A$. Other prices from 1985 outside of the Hyatt were :- cokes 400rp, orange juice 500rp, vodka and orange 1900rp, Bacardi and coke 1900rp, Kahlua and coke 2900rp, Southern Comfort and coke 2900rp. Sandwiches averaged between 600rp to 1250rp while a mixed grill was 8000rp. A beer at the Handara Country Club was 1550rp while a BLT was 2325rp. Clothing prices were like the other commodities and relevant to the exchange rate just as they are today in 2005. An item of clothing that was 4 or 5000rp then in 1985 is 25 to 30000rp in 2005. So the ratio of value to the A$ is almost the same percentage. One difference was that in 1985 the airport departure tax was only 6000rp (about 6A$) while in 2005 it is 100000rp (about 13A$). Still, a rise of 7A$ in 20 years is certainly not dramatic if everything is kept in perspective. 1985 was a time when there was a myriad of music tape shops everywhere and pirate tapes were the norm. Redgum had not long released 'I've Been To Bali Too' and the song boomed out of almost every shop and restaurant and bar. One of the most popular singlets or t-shirts proudly proclaimed 'I Rode Through Denpasar and Lived'. They were a must for any who had achieved such a feat (mine is rather worn and bedraggled but I still have it). After 60 Minutes had done a not too flattering program on Bali and its lack of medical facilities there were 'George Negus Speaks Sh*t, and '7 Days in Bali is Better Than 60 Minutes' t-shirts everywhere and I wore mine with pride. That 60 minutes program actually turned out to be very prophetic in what was to take place in Kuta 20 years down the track but at that time the thought of terrorism in Bali was never even countenanced by anyone. It was simply unthinkable. In an advertising leaflet for the still operating Bali Moon Restaurant in Sanur it is written that 'Public Transportation is a Fun Experience - It Cost You + or - 150rp each to anywhere in the Sanur area'. The Hello Bali Hello, Subec and the famous Number 1 discos all operated in Sanur and what a good safe night out that was. My kids spent most nights at the Matahari Nightclub in the Hyatt. Absolutely no cause for concern if they were there. Peanuts Club in Kuta advertised that 'Friday Nite is Party Nite' Where you could Dance, Dance, Dance, Drink, Drink, Drink from 8.30pm till late and that 'T-Shirts, Singlets, Shorts, Thongs, are BLOODY WELCOME MATE! The Kuta Art Market was an array of lean-to corrugated iron shedding and natural dirt all around. No fancy lock up facilities like now with a paved area to walk and drive upon. The Rama Bridge Café opposite the Art Markets was as popular then as it is now and when my tribe had substantially boosted the local economy in the markets we would retire to the Rama Bridge for refreshment. Nothings changed in 20 years because we still do just that. It is almost ritualistic.
In that two weeks we went all around the island and all over the island. It was just the best of the best. Georges wife Putu had previously given birth to a son, another Putu, so it is fair to say that we have known him almost since before he was born. They subsequently had another son, Made and a gorgeous daughter, Ayu. George and Putu opened their own restaurant, Madellos, in Jalan Tamlingan near the corner of Jalan Duyung and still operate it today. George is also part owner of the well-known and well-patronised Bonsai Restaurant on the beach at Sanur. Being of the Hindu faith George could have two wives and he so he also married Putu's sister Putra and they have an angel daughter, Indah. These kids all love their 'Nannie' as they call Pat and she loves them as much as our own childrens children. We have been witness to and part of their growing up too and heavy are the tears when it is time to part once again. Pat bought little Putu his first pair of shoes in 1985 and we all took great delight in watching his first halting steps when he tried to walk in them. For two weeks it seemed that the camera never stopped clicking or the old style video camera never stopped turning, recording, to us, priceless footage. About 12 years ago we began staying at the Sativa Cottages in Sanur and formed a very close friendship with the manager, Tri D'Jaya, a really top bloke who although he no longer runs the Sativa he remains a close friend to all of the family and we have a great reunion each time we go back to Bali. When we began staying at Sativa there was a young fellow by the name of Wayan Ranu who had his vehicle parked in the lane and was earning his living by hiring out as a car and driver. This young bloke is tops and we have been using him as our driver ever since. He and his wife Nyoman are now also close friends, and Nannie Pat has another two gorgeous 'grandkids' in Made and Gede.
I have often been asked what it is about Bali that I like so much and why do we always go there as often as we do. I used to explain that it was the island, the wonderful people, the shopping, the relaxed atmosphere etc. It is right to say that it is all of that and more. Much more. However while Pat and I were enjoying our little discovery from the past I thought it would be a good time to view the video tapes from out 1985 trip that I had converted to DVD a couple of months back but never looked at the finished product. My goodness. What an added bonus to our trip down memory lane that proved to be. Were we ever that young? We thought the traffic was busy back then but it was nothing compared to today. You could cross Jalan Legian with ease and even do the same in the middle of Denpasar without any fear of being bowled over. Before the watch sellers were the kids trying to sell silver rings and bracelets. They were everywhere and so much fun. There were few if any footpaths in Sanur and a walk along the streets of Kuta meant watching carefully where one stepped, as there were many holes in the paths that did exist. There was no path along the Sanur beachfront and very few market stalls there either. Just a few hawkers along the beach who were prohibited from entering onto the beach at the rear of the hotels. They could pass along but not stop to try to sell to the hotel patrons. How rude was that! Good God, it was their Island and we were only guests there just as we are today. There were plenty of topless girls on the beach at Sanur and a heap more on the beach at Kuta and the locals were only just beginning to take heed of the Soeharto Governments decree to cover up. Bali really was 'The Island of Tits' as well as the 'Island of the Gods'. Our family has grown since 1985 from three daughters and a son to now include three sons in law, a daughter in law, three granddaughters and eight grandsons. So what is it about this Island that must possess magic powers for it has been known to soothe an aching heart and ease a troubled mind that holds me entrapped in its spell? There is so much about Bali that is important to us apart from the obvious. The wonderful friendships that have nurtured and blossomed over the years and our Balinese 'grandchildren' are but two of our treasures. However to us the one thing that stands alone and why we will be eternally grateful to Bali and always return there, is that as the chances of us ever having another complete family holiday with all of our children together are more than extremely slim, Bali gave to our family the happiness and pleasures, even for a short two weeks, the joys that some families, so sadly, search for but never experience in an entire lifetime.