27th March to 27th April 2005
We were a very excited family that flew out of Brisbane on Air Paradise on Sunday 27th March, 31 days in our favourite place. We are a family of five, but our eldest daughter stayed home this trip. Hubby, me, Zoe (15) and Tom (12) boarded for our fifth trip to Bali. Had a good flight with good service but the stewardess told me when I ordered my last scotch that it was my fifth drink and I was not allowed more than six drinks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No problems with VOA, paid in Australian dollars and got rupiah change. As we wait for the bags I pop over to the ATM's and withdraw some money, and the bags have arrived. We don't book transport and as we travel with surfboards we go to the right-hand side of the taxi booth and the van drivers hang here. Found a driver but when we walked through the car park we found out he only had a taxi! 'No problems' he says as he lifts the taxi symbol off the roof, 'we can tie boards down!' The board cover that we have brought with us on one of the boards has inbuilt ties, so without too much effort we secure the boards to the roof and squeeze are four backpacks into the boot, and we are off to the Melasti Beach Resort. Have booked an old suite, ground floor with double bed, and are not disappointed. Not many people staying and we are only here for two nights but the staff tell us they are booked up for the school holidays.
Our holiday that we have planned is very similar to the one we have most years but we always make sure that we stay at one new location, firstly we go to Nusa Lembongan, after the first two days in Legian to get used to the climate, change money etc. We mostly go to Bali for the surf but because we have been staying on Nusa Lembongan for several years we have also made a lot of friends, so catching up with all of them is a big part of what we do.
27th-29th March
Settled into our room, good air-conditioning and very clean, decided to make the first excursion to Bintang supermarket at Seminyak. Met our friend Made out the front of the Melasti, who we use as a driver when in Legian (will post his details at the end of this report). Arranged transport to Sanur on Tuesday morning to catch the Perama to Lembongan. Caught a bluebird taxi to the supermarket. Visited the mobile phone shop that is located down the left-hand side of the bintang super market and bought a Bali sim card. It cost 70,000rp with 20,000rp credit and we then topped it up with a further 50,000rp. The shop owner put it in for us and showed us how to check credit etc. There was an Apotek next door and since we had arrived I had not stopped sneezing and could sense a cold coming on. I bought some Chinese medicine tablets called ‘Nasal Clear' and they worked really well, ended up buying another two boxes at the end of the trip to take home. Ventured into Bintang supermarket went upstairs to buy the 12,500rp kettle and yes they put water in it and tested it. Also bought a few pairs of thongs and the usual chips, lollies and drinks. But you can't buy Bali ciders at Bintang so on returning to the Melasti it was a quick dash across the road to the shop to get some. Bali cider is in with the Bali Coolers. It is very light and has small alcohol content, great with lunch.
Following a few drinks on the veranda the kids were revved up to go to Uncle Norms for dinner. As we left it started to rain and we were all pretty soaked when we arrived at the restaurant. Great to see all the staff and had a nice dinner. Walked back and the rain had stopped, its great to be back.
After a nice brekkie at the Melasti, (yoghurt and fruit salad, omelette and vegies and coffee,) Tom went surfing and we headed to the kodak moneychangers in Jalan Padma. We were leaving for Lembongan the next morning and usually take over enough rupiah to last us while we are there. Go in and ask them if they can cash $2,000 and they tell us just give them half an hour and yes no problem. Stop at Wayan and Friends for a juice and decide to book for dinner. Back to money changer and take the money back to Melasti, organised for tomorrow. Spend a few hours around the pool and then venture out to Balitoo for a late lunch. Great to see all the staff but they tell us that the rent has gone up and the present owner is going to sell. They are all concerned about whether they will keep their jobs. Met a nice couple from WA and chatted for a few hours over a few Bali Ciders. Thomas was desperate to buy some fireworks to take to Lembongan. Walked past a few stalls and then he stopped at one and started bartering. Ended up with quite a few boxes of fireworks for 250,000rp and he was happy. He has his own money that he has saved form his birthday and it sure is burning a whole in his pocket.
Went back to Melasti for a bit of relaxation and then walked to Wayan and Friends for dinner. Usually when we are in Bali this place is full and we have never eaten here because of never being a vacant table. But tonight we are the only people in the restaurant. Food OK but not overly impressed. Walking back to Melasti we pass a DVD shop and I remember that we haven't bought a few to take over to Lembongan. There is not much in the way of nightlife on the island but some of the restaurants have DVD players. So we purchase about 15 and head back for an early night as we have to be at Sanur by 10 in the morning.
29th March - 17th March
Following brekkie we pack and check out of the MBR. Made is organised and picks us up on time and we head off for the Perama. Arriving at Sanur we find out that there is a Megawati rally on in the road that leads to the Perama office. Made has no choice but to drive past and turn down the next road on the left, which is about two kilometres down the road. This road also leads to the beach and so we all trek along to the part where the Perama office is situated. Purchase our tickets at 45,000rp (10% discount usual price 50,000rp, but once you have travelled once you get a 10% taicket). The Perama is moored about 2km away, also due to security for the Megawati rally, and so we trudge through the coral sand with our backpacks & surfboards.
All this was forgotten once we were on our way across the Lombok strait. The beauty of Nusa Lembongan appears and we all get really excited, soon we will be back on the island that we really love. We spot Kal, one of the staff from the Puri Nusa, on the beach waiting for us. We land and he takes some of the backpacks and Tom on the motorbike and we continue the trudge up the beach to the Puri Nusa.
When we arrive we find that most of the staff are the same but the kitchen girls have changed. One of them is married to Kal and she is pregnant, with the baby due around 25th April (we all hoped it would arrive early). The owner Made, is visiting, and greets us like long lost friends and we settle down to a drink with him. We stay in the family bungalow, which is situated at the back of the bungalows and Wayan, the room boy, smiles and tells us that the toilet is working and he has put in a new shower! We negotiste a slightly cheaper rate this year as were staying nearly 3 weeks, 70,000rp a night for the family bungalow. Tom is off for a surf and we do some unpacking, which includes stealing a table and fan from the room next-door. We spend the afternoon catching up with what has happened in local lives since we were last here. Made owned a restaurant in the Bali Beach Hotel at Sanur, and he has had to close the business. He talks to us about building a villa on his spare land, adjacent to the Family bungalow, we tell him we will talk about it later.
Tom's friend Ketut has arrived at the Puri Nusa, we give him the present we have bought him, a new Rip Curl original hat. Once we are on the island Ketut spends every dinner with us. The kids are keen to catch up with their friends at Ketuts Warung. This is a warung behind Lembongan Bungalows where all the meals on the menu are 6,000rp; Bintang is the most expensive menu item! Ketut has a grandson Batu, and her daughter in law, Wayan, is a great friend of Zoe. When we arrive Batu is not very well but recognises Zoe straight away and starts to cheer up. We have brought him some Match Box cars and he is really happy. Wayan is also pleased with the shirt we brought her. We ask Ketut if she has any Tai curries and she apologises and says that business is very slow and she hasn't been able to afford to buy any chicken, but if we give her warning next time she will be able to organise. No problems we say and order the first of many vegetable noodle soups, Gado Gado and nasi goreng. Ketut makes the kids a special peanut sauce with no spice and they love her gado gado. We call in at Agus's restaurant on the way for a few bintangs and then back for an early night. Tom has brought a wetsuit for Agus's son and he is stoked with his present.
Back at Puri Nusa we hand out the Billabong wallets that we have brought the staff as presents. We had brought the kitchen girls tops and made sure that they were sent to them. The new kitchen girls we bought lipstick and hairclips from a shop on the Island.
Most of our days on Lembongan consisted of brekkie at Puri Nusa overlooking the surf break, Shipwrecks; Surfing for Tom and Hubby; Lazing around on the sun lounges and reading during the morning; meeting other visitors; and chatting with the staff. Lunch at either Puri Nusa or Ketuts Warung, along with at least a few Bintangs. Afternoon walk or rest, followed by a scotch at sunset, and on to some where for dinner.
We had three days of continual rain at the beginning of our stay and we were all pleased when it finally lifted. Most of the guests sat around and read and chatted. It was interesting because the more it rained the closer all the tables and furniture became, as everyone crowded for shelter. The kids caught up with schoolwork and played game boys. During this time there was a German couple and a Scottish guy staying at Puri Nusa and a group of Japanese surfers.
For some days during our 19-day stay we were the only people staying at Puri Nusa. Everyday we would watch the Perama arrive, but hardly any tourists' venture as far along the beach to Puri Nusa and by the time they do they have already settled into somewhere else. During our stay I did call into several different bungalows etc and have included a list of places to stay and some contact details at the end of this report.
One day we went snorkelling at Nusa Penida. Johno who owns Johno's water taxi arranged to take us for 200,000rp and the German couple who were also staying with us came ( I think they paid 175,000rp). The boat drivers have formed a union and have a schedule of fees and they are not allowed to go below these set prices, of course they can charge over it but not below. Had a great day even though it did start to rain. The visibility was good and there were heaps of fish around. I have snorkelled off the pontoon on Nusa Lembongan where the Bali Hai and the other day trips take snorkellers, and Penida is a ten times better. We had some biscuits with us and fed the fish with some of them. The fish were feeding out of our hands, it was great!
Another day we hired pushbikes and planned lunch at Dream Beach. We arranged to meet Made there to join us for lunch. Hired the bikes from Ketuts Losmens, 3 bikes for 100,000rp. The ride through the village was fine and then we started to climb the hill. For those of you who have been to Lembongan, the hill that leads to the Lembongan village is huge. I started walking the bike up the hill and it so steep that at one stage the bike was going down even though I was pushing up!! And Tom came along with his mate Ketut on a motor bike, took the pushy from poor old mum, mum hops on motor bike and we are back on track. Ketut took me to Dream beach and everyone else made it safely. All enjoyed a well-deserved drink and then Tom and Ketut had to leave, as Ketut was due back at school by one. Made arrived and we went upstairs for lunch. What a beautiful view. The restaurant was a bit pricey for lembongan but one of those places where you have no choice but to pay! Spoke to the manager about the rooms and they have one family room for 250,000rp and two double rooms for 150,000rp to 200,000rp. All the rooms were occupied but certainly looked like a lovely quiet place to stay, great for romance! Decided to cycle back past the channel between Lembongan and Chenigans and around the mangroves, rather than take on the hill, the bikes brakes were all a bit dodgy. Had a nice ride back. Definitely hot when we stopped for a drink at Agus's bar.
Agus, who runs a restaurant and bungalows along Jungabatu bay, taught Tom to ride a motorbike this trip. Firstly he took him to the soccer field and had him riding around there, then they made their way onto the roads, and all over the island, including the suspension bridge across the Ceningans Island. For the length of our stay Tom was continually getting one of the staff to come with him for a ride, it was good having an experienced rider with him as some of the roads can be quite narrow. Zoe also had a go and rode with her friend Wayan on numerous occasions. Once Thomas became really confident he was able to pop over to Agus's and borrow his bike. No charge just kept topping it up with petrol (no petrol stations on Lembongan, you just buy a litre plastic bottle from the local shop.)
One afternoon Kal took us to his home to catch up with his pregnant wife Wayan, who we know from previous trips. Kal lives in a family compound with his mother and father and numerous brothers. His house is really nice and he is obviously very proud of what he has achieved. It is definitely the best house in the compound and he is already planning a temple, adjacent to his house, but tells us that to build what he wants is very expensive. We met his family and everyone crowded around on his veranda and we had a good talk, of course we asked lots of questions.
On the last week of our stay the Island had a ceremony for the Ocean. I have attended several ceremonies on past trips, and participated in the praying and receiving of the holy water, and was naturally keen to attend this one. The family all went ‘no way, seen one ceremony seen them all'! So I wandered into the village and down the road to the temple. All the way I had locals smiling at me and saying ‘Hello Mama Tom!'. No matter where we go on the island everyone knows Tom and hubby and myself are known as Mama and Papa Tom. Met Agus at the entrance with another guest that was staying at his place, Agus waits for a while to make sure there is room for us and then we enter and find a spot to sit. All around us are Men, Women and children are beautifully dressed in their traditional clothes, they all looked so serene! Following a lot of chanting the people around us hold up some flowers and after the prayer they put the flowers behind their ears and in their headscarfs, we follow suit. Then we light some incense and place in the ground in front of us. After more praying the priests move through the crowd and you hold out cupped hands and receive three handfuls of water that you drink, then you hold out your hands and splash the water over your head twice. Then the priest gives you some rice and you stick that too your forehead, this shows that you have prayed today. It was a great experience and leaves you feeling really calm.
Decided to have dinner at Agus's that night, Agus has a DVD player and the kids love the menu (chicken nuggets and chips!), so following dinner, the kids go back to Puri Nusa and we decide to proceed down to the Scooby Doo bar, which is having an opening night. This place used to be owned by a couple of English guys but they are bankrupt and now a local who owns the land has taken it over. The bar is right on the beach and in a really nice spot. Drinks are really cheap and there were a lot of specials, after quite a few Bintangs we decide to try the Arak special. It comes in a plastic jug, probably around four drinks, and at 25,000rp good value. We then have another half a jug (they have run out of Arak) and it hits us like a ton of bricks. 'I need to go home' I say and so dodging the boat ropes we stagger home. The next day we swear off Arak, it is pretty strong stuff when bought in a water bottle! Later during our stay someone asked Agus for an Arak and he stated that he didn't sell it because it makes the tourists aggressive and gives them diarrhoea. I think that the local brew may be stronger than the regulated stuff that you can buy in Bali.
One afternoon we went to check out the new places that have been built on the hill that Coconuts Resort. The first one off the beach is a group of villas built in twos that span right up the hill, with stark concrete steps up the middle. From a distance it looks really ugly and the locals call it ‘the scar on the hill'. When you are there though it is tranquil and nicely finished. A pool overlooks Jungabatu bay. The villas are two bedroom, living area, dining area, kitchen and bathroom. Very nice but a bit over our price range at 1 million rupiah per night and an extra 300,000 for one with a plunge pool. Will provide the contact details at the end of my JBR, they have a website and are called Lembongan Island Beach Villas. Most of the villas are owned by Western Australians and the daily fee for upkeep is $30 per day, you would definitely be very keen to rent them out! A local girl Sally owns next place along. Sadly it is the only locally owned establishment along the hill, which I find very sad. She has a lovely restaurant and is slowly adding rooms as she and her brother can afford. They have few rooms similar in design to Coconuts, and a nice family room that was brand new. Will also include her details at end of report. Past Coconuts beach and right on the corner on the way to Mushroom beach is another huge complex. This one is owned by Japanese and is also expensive with the deluxe rooms 160US per night, standard rooms 60US. The pool and views are lovely. The really interesting thing about this place is that they plan to bring visitors on the boat to a cave that is below the resort. They have cut into the rock for 30meters and have built some very steep circular stairs and a pulley system for the bags, a real engineering feat!
I will finish Part 1 here (it is certainly getting long) and work on Part 2 and the list of contacts etc over the weekend. Hope someone has gained some info. Back soon.